Dog Blog

Anything that’s just me talking about dogs.

Your Dog Isn’t Ignoring You

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, Guide 2: TRAINING THEORIES, Training

In my last post, I talk about how often we accidentally teach our dogs behaviors we don’t actually want, or we don’t realize we’ve taught it to them by accident. In this post I’m going to talk about how your dog is not ignoring you, they simply don’t know how to complete the behavior you’re asking for in the context your asking.

Just because a dog can sit, down, stay and roll over in the living room doesn’t mean they’re ready to preform these behaviors in public, in front of distractions.

Distractions and challenges are a BIG part of dog training. If you haven’t taught your dog how to work in distracting and challenging environments then how can you expect them to do it when you need them to?

Dogs don’t generalize well. A great example of this is in training guide dogs. Because guide dogs need to be able to work in very distracting and sometimes very challenging environments and they’re asked to complete complex tasks in this way, then the trainers have to train the dog in each scenario they can think of. For example, when teaching a dog to locate a seat they need to learn that a seat can mean a chair but it also means a bench, a stool, a couch etc. They have to be taught to find the object in all it’s forms. They also have to be taught how to do this when navigating through crowds or in space that it may not be obvious there is a seat nearby.

Likewise, just because your dog comes when called in your fenced back yard, doesn’t mean they understand how to do that when in a crowded park or on a hiking trail when a squirrel runs in front of them, and just because they come when called at the park doesn’t mean they will do it in a busy parking lot.

All training should start small and easy.

Start in an environment that isn’t overly distracting for your dog. A great place would be your living room or similar room in the house that has space to train your dog in and is a common space that they are very used to. Don’t start training something new with a lot of people or other animals around. Start where it is quiet and there are minimal distractions.

You can add your own distractions in many ways, the possibilities are only as endless as your imagination! Some great examples of things you can do while still in the first location (inside your home):

  • have someone walk past
  • someone blows a whistle or makes a lot of noise (while ignoring the dog)
  • work in a more active part of your home
  • have the TV or a radio on
  • play sounds of crowded spaces, thunder storms or fireworks (especially great if your dog needs help desensitizing to these sounds)

Distractions are often challenges, but not all challenges are distractions. Here are some ways to add another level of challenge (while you’re still training in a quiet place inside your house).

Many of these exercises are great for learning impulse control, which is a great skill for all dogs to have an an important part of using their obedience skills in public places.

  • roll a ball past your dog
  • throw a treat in the opposite direction
  • have a person run or skip past
  • have a person approach you and greet you (without acknowledging the dog)
  • someone pushes something with wheels past (rolling chair or stool, baby stroller, bike, etc)
  • be sporadic in your own movements; do jumping jacks, sit on the floor, anything that might encourage your dog to get playful or distracted
  • ignore your dog; sometimes just ignoring the dog can lead them to get bored and wander off, this is a great exercise to work on their impulse control and patience

Once you can comfortably say that your dog is very well trained and responds extremely well in your quiet, indoor environment, you can move locations.

You don’t want to move from your quiet location to a public park right away though. Here is the key to reliable obedience; gradually increase the challenge and spend time in each level until your dog responds as close to 100% as you can get.

When you do change locations, you’re going to want to start back at level 1 and then move through level 2 and 3 when your dog is ready.

The second location should be still within your home but with more challenge. Depending on your house, this might be a more active place in your home or it may be your fenced back yard. If you don’t have a fenced yard then make sure you are using a long line on your dog.

Once your dog is performing well move on to the next location.

The third location should have a lot more challenge and distractions than the 2nd but still within your control. Keep your dog on leash and practice their skills while introducing each level of distractions & challenges.

Once your dog does well you can move on to more public spaces where you have less control over the environment.

The important thing is that every time you change locations you are going back to level 1 challenges and moving through each level in each new location.

When you begin to teach your dog off leash training, you’re going to want to go back to the FIRST location as well as the first level and then proceed to move through each level with each location all over again, but this time you’ll be working on your off leash training with all of the behaviors your dog has already learned and proofed on.

Off leash training isn’t for all dogs, and whether you train your dog off leash or not will need to be at your own discretion.

If you’ve trained with every level in all locations and are still struggling to get your dog to focus on you instead of their surroundings, then it may be something else that is interfering with your training (like your expectations).

“My dog knows this at home but won’t do it outside.”

You’ve probably jumped to the next location or level too quickly, or maybe even skipped a level. Take your time exploring different distractions and challenges until your dog is performing successfully at all levels before moving on to the next location.

“My dog only listens when I have treats.”

This is a separate (albeit, common) problem. Treats need to be removed gradually, while increasing other forms of reward (like physical and verbal praise). After the dog really knows something well in all levels and locations, you should begin rewarding treats very randomly. If your dog doesn’t know WHEN a treat is coming then they’re more likely to listen with the expectation that it could be this time.

“My dog did this perfectly yesterday but not today.”

Dogs are not robots and aren’t going to perform the same every day. Just like people, they can have off days as well. When your dog is having an off day, take a step back in their training. Focus on tasks you know they can complete easily and give lots of rewards for those simple behaviors performed. This will help build your dogs confidence and reinforce the good behavior without punishing the bad (because you know they know this, they’re just having an off day).

“My dog listens well except when…”

Whatever that “except when” thing might be (maybe it’s people approaching, maybe it’s other dogs or maybe it’s wildlife) that is the thing you need to take a step back on and keep practicing at easier levels before trying to move on again.

If your dog isn’t listening when you think they know it, then it means they haven’t learned to apply it to all levels of challenges yet.

Your Dog isn’t the Problem

Dog Blog, Real Life Training, Zelda

It started out like my average Saturday morning: Nothing More sang me awake telling me “everything is better when you’re dreaming”, which also signaled to Zelda that it was time to get up for work. She has learned that the sound of my alarm = going to work.

I let her outside to go pee and then headed to the bathroom myself. I could hear her barking outside; her classic “intruder alert” type of bark. I assumed it was just somebody walking by that she didn’t like the look of. Until the barking persisted. I was growing concerned that her barking would wake my kids up, so I quickly finished up and hurried outside in my bare feet.

There was Zelda, in the middle of the yard. She looked almost relieved to see me. She ran to where I stood on the deck and then back to where she’d been standing in the yard. She did this a few times, looking from me to the back corner of the yard, where the fire pit is. It was all very classic “Lassie” type behavior, and what she was trying to communicate was clear to me: “look! Look over there!”

My eyes followed where she was trying to direct my attention, and then I saw it—the intruder. It was a cat. Just a big fat orange tabby.

I said to Zelda, “It’s a CAT! What are you waiting for? Chase it off! Go get it!” and like a shot she was off. She chased the cat over the fence and hopefully back to its home. After reaching the fence line and finding the cat efficiently out of reach, she trotted back to me with a look of pure satisfaction. She looked so proud of herself, and looked to me to tell her she was the “good dog” she knew she was.

“Great job Zelda,” I told her, “now next time maybe start with that.”

But Zelda isn’t a dog that takes matters into her own paws without input. She isn’t a cattle dog or a guardian breed. She isn’t the lead dog of the team. She’s a “yes man” type of dog—and that’s okay. However, this story has made me think about how a lot of dogs actually operate.

Her job, like all good family dogs, is to let me know when something is wrong. And she did that. She just needed a little bit of direction on what to do next.

Once I really thought about it, I realized Zelda didn’t fumble by not chasing the cat right away. She did exactly what I’ve taught her to do.

When we go for walks and a strange dog approaches, I put Zelda behind me and I handle it. When someone comes to our house, she sounds the alarm and I answer the door. When we’re working at the hotel, she lets me know someone is at the front desk with a gentle “woof”, and I go talk to them.

So of course when a cat shows up in the yard, her first job is the same: tell me.

Dogs come with built-in tendencies influenced by breed and personality. You see it when a Border Collie drops into a stalk over a ball, or when certain dogs are naturally more “alert first, act second.” That doesn’t go away—it just gets shaped.

Barking isn’t random. It’s communication. It’s information. It’s what dogs have been doing for us for thousands of years. Zelda wasn’t barking for no reason. She was doing exactly what she’s been taught to do: get my attention, and then we figure it out together.

So next time your dog is barking, it might not be “shut up” that’s needed. It might just be “okay, what are you telling me?”

Disclaimer: while the photo above is real, the header image at the top of his post is AI generated to help with visual story-telling.

Bring Your Dog to Work

Dog Blog, Real Life Training, Zelda

ASK THE BOSS

Unless of course, you’re the boss, I would never advise you to just start bringing your dog to work without talking to anyone about it first. Have a conversation with your manager, maybe even with your coworkers too (you never know if someone has a fear or allergy to dogs).

START WITH A LOT OF RULES

Your dog should have a ton of rules when you first start bringing them to work. As time goes on and they learn the rules, you may be able to relax on them a bit but that will entirely depend on you, your dog and your job.

I work front desk at a hotel on the weekends. I bring Zelda with me and she has been very well-received by both my coworkers and the guests. That being said, there’s been a few times I’ve questioned whether bringing her with me was the right choice. She is a very well trained and well behaved dog, but as I always say; dogs are not robots. They are not 100% predictable.

Your rules are going to be different based on what your job is and what you need your dog to do. Here is an example of some of the rules I have for Zelda while we’re working at the hotel.

  1. No going in the laundry room
    Front desk is connected to the laundry room and the door is usually open. Zelda has learned not to cross the threshold (though she does sometimes if her favorite coworkers is in there). I just don’t want dog hair all over the clean sheets and towels.

  2. No going in the restaurant
    This seems pretty self-explanatory, but it’s a new rule for Zelda. We didn’t always have the restaurant in the hotel, it is fairly new.

  3. Pets are only allowed in the lobby and on second floor
    (“and behind front desk” – I like to add this line when I’m checking guests in and they usually laugh). This includes Zelda. Occasionally she will come to 2nd floor with me as a chance to expose her to the elevator (she does not like the elevator). But for the most part, we stick to the lobby, front desk, and back hallway that leads to the loading dock (where I take her to pee).

  4. She must walk at my side
    When I first started bringing Zelda with me, I had her on leash. Now I bring the leash with me but honestly never attach it to her. She has a custom-made tactical collar that allows me to grab hold of her easily when she is next to me. She has an excellent off-leash heel and usually sticks by my side unless I tell her “go Front Desk” then she will race ahead of me to her spot behind front desk.

  5. Don’t bark at guests!
    This is probably the hardest rule for her to follow. Especially if I am in the laundry room or in the bathroom, she will bark when people approach front desk. People don’t usually have to ring the bell. But I don’t like her being hostile to guests, so I tend to correct the behavior and have her go lay down. I never worry about someone coming behind front desk that isn’t supposed to be there though. She lets my coworkers in but will bark at anyone else. Most guests are very understanding and we’ve yet to have a problem with it, but it is still a behavior I am working on and would like to gain more control over.

BRING WHAT YOUR DOG NEEDS

If you’re bringing your dog for an eight-hour shift you need to make sure you’re bringing essentials for your dog too.

  • water dish
  • leash
  • treats
  • food (if your dog normally eats in this time)
  • small first aid kit (I bring one just in case she steps on something in the parking lot etc.)
  • a bed or blanket to lay on (Zelda doesn’t use one, so I don’t, but your dog might use one)

BE PREPARED FOR THE IMPACT YOUR DOG MAKES

What I didn’t expect when I started taking Zelda to work with me was the impact she would have on my coworkers, the guests and myself. She brightens everyone’s day. When it’s a particularly busy and stressful day, one by one all of my coworkers pop in for some quick Zelda time. It boosts moral. I see people go from tired and done to smiling and ready to tackle more of the day.

When the guests notice her (she loves to pop up on the gate and startle them) it’s always met with smiles and laughter. They comment on how beautiful she is, how well behaved, how nice it is to see her, how much she makes them miss their dogs back home. It’s really sweet to see. Zelda LOVES children and the way she brightens their day in particular is very touching.

Recently, Zelda hurt her back leg and I decided to keep her home on Sunday after discovering it on the Saturday. That day at work felt depressing. It was so quiet. All day I felt like I was forgetting something, or like a piece of me was missing. I would catch myself starting to say something to her and then realize she’s not there. It felt really lonely without her. The way she picks me up, gives me an excuse to take a quick break in the sunshine, is there for me to talk to or play a quick game of fetch behind front desk… all those little things add up to make my day into a good day at work.

(yes, both of the above photos of Zelda were taken at my place of work. There’s a reason it’s called The View Hotel)

Give Your Dogs Name Purpose

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, GUIDE 5: DOG TRAINING, Training

In week three of my Basic Obedience Workshop we talk about focus and reliability. Something I often talk about but don’t always see used by my students is teaching your dog to look at you when you say their name.

Linking a behavior to your dogs name is like a little life hack for training your dog. If you have your dogs focus before you give them the command they are much more likely to actually follow the command.

HOW TO TRAIN IT

To pair your dogs name with the behavior to look at you is simple repetition, repetition.

Say your dogs name; if they don’t look at you right away that’s okay. You can use their favorite treat to lure from their nose up to your eyes.

Give a reward when they look to your face.

Give a *Jackpot Reward* when they make eye contact.

Give an extra *Special Jackpot Reward* if they make eye contact or even look to your face without a lure.

HOW TO SHAPE IT

Shaping = praising your dog when they naturally perform the behavior you desire. You can then fine-tune it by withholding the treat for “more” from the behavior (dogs usually start guessing or adding in some flair to try to figure out what you want that will get the reward), and then rewarding them when they show a behavior that is or is closer to the behavior you desire.

You can naturally shape the behavior to look at you when you’re walking or playing with your dog and they naturally just look at you. Instantly praise “YES”. You can even start pairing it with their name “Yes, Fido!”. Even if you’re not trying to pair the behavior with their name (although I highly recommenced it) just rewarding for “checking in” with you will build good habits for off-leash work later on.

JACKPOT!

If you’re not sure what a “Jackpot Reward” is; it is when you give several small rewards in a row that your dog will count as a really big reward. Jackpot rewards are usually reserved for when your dog does something really well. Maybe something you’ve even been trying to get them to do for a while, or something they’ve been struggling to understand.

To a dog, several small treats in a row is a way bigger reward than the same amount of treats given in one pile. So make sure you’re giving those jackpot rewards one after another and not all at once.

You can also reserve very special rewards as jackpot rewards; this way you’re using less treats but they still hold higher value. Something very smelly and tasty that your dog loves.

REAL WORLD IMPLEMENTATION

The most common problem I see is dogs who don’t come when they’re called. Teach your dog to look to you out of habit every time you say their name and you can shout their name first before giving the recall command. That way your dog is much more likely to actually follow through and come when called because you got their attention first. They’re listening and it is the opportunity to call them once. “FIDO!” – dog looks to you – “COME!”. If your dog doesn’t listen, then it’s time to focus on recall drills and exercises.

Don’t over-use it: train and drill focus with their name and lots of jackpot rewards before you ever use it in a real-life scenario. You want it to become a second-nature habit before you ever actually need to use it.

When You Meet a New Dog…

Dog Blog, GUIDE 1: SAFETY & REGULATIONS, Zelda

I bring my dog Zelda with me to work front desk on the weekends at the local hotel. Zelda is friendly, loves the attention and takes her job seriously. However, I’ve observed something time and time again that honestly makes my skin crawl. Grown adults who have no clue how to greet a strange dog. They greet her as if they would greet their own dog. There is a big difference between the comfort level of a dog you know and live with and a strange dog you just met for the first time.

Dogs talk through body language and display many different “stress signals” to try to tell others that they are uncomfortable with what they’re doing. Most humans don’t understand these stress signals and so do not recognize them. They keep pushing the dogs boundaries without even knowing it.

We love dogs and we want to get close to them, rough up their fur and really show them how we care. But to a dog that doesn’t know you, this type of behavior can be scary and overwhelming. Imagine if a stranger you just met greeted you by getting right in your body space, hugging you or slapping you on the back. You’d probably feel really uncomfortable.

Want to learn more about dog’s stress signals? Read my Body Language and Respect post from my Dogs and Children series.

When Dogs Run Loose

Dog Blog, Dog Rescue, FSJ ACT, GUIDE 1: SAFETY & REGULATIONS

This is a subject I’ve been meaning to talk about for some time but I wasn’t quite sure how to address it. Dogs running loose on their own is a massive problem in our little community. I wasn’t sure how to address this issue until recently I couldn’t help but comment on a public post about “bad dog owners”. I pointed out that it’s a lot easier to educate people when you don’t insult them, and the response was another barrage of insults but this time directed at me. At first I was annoyed, maybe even mad, and very confused as this person was making zero sense. But I collected myself and remembered that when people respond that way it’s because they’re feeling backed into a corner and defenseless. They were too stubborn to change their own mind and so all they had left was insults to hurl.

But it got me thinking… how do I help educate people on this important topic when there are people resulting to insults hiding behind an anonymous name? I decided to start where I thrive best; educational material online. Just like my Dogs and Children series, I have structured it much the same with info graphs and this post to elaborate a little more. I know it won’t change the minds that really need it, but maybe it will help people understand that this is a broad issue, as well as to bust some common misconceptions I hear.

When Dogs Run Loose it’s often referred to by professionals and bylaw officers as “dog at large”. It means a dog is off their property without an owner or caregiver and without a leash.

There are many reasons it is unhealthy for a dog to run around public and private properties without an owner accompanying them. There are risks to your dogs health and life if you let them run loose.

“LET THEM BE DOGS”

I hear a lot of different reasons why we should “let dogs be dogs” and let them roam the streets and live their lives as they please. I often am told that different cultures have always raised dogs differently, and essentially, who am I to come in and tell them how to raise their dog? Sure, the traditional way to raise dogs makes sense when you think about it in traditional times. But this is 2026 and this is a vastly different world we live in today. It’s time for all humans to step up and take care of our animal friends in a way that keeps them safe and healthy in all regards.

CALL ANIMAL CONTROL

When and if to call Animal Control is going to depend on different factors. I’ve heard a lot of different reasons from people against calling Animal Control (which, in our town, is the Fort St. James District bylaw officers). There has been a lot of controversy ever since they opened their doors January 1st, 2025. I’m not here to touch on most of that, but I am here to bust a few myths I’ve heard floating about.

HOW YOU CAN HELP

If, after reading the above points you still don’t feel right calling AC on your friends and neighbors dogs, then maybe offering help is more your style. Sometimes people need help more than judgement or consequences.

They might need help accessing the right equipment (like a proper tie-out), they may need help building a fence, they may need financial aid (there are many resources available for this), or maybe they need the number of a reliable dog walker. There are so many solutions that they could need help with and all you have to do is nicely ask them.

IT IS A COMMUNITY PROBLEM

Dogs at large and left to wander is a community problem. It puts the dogs at risk but it also puts the public at risk as well. When dogs are scared, feel threatened or cornered they will often resort to biting as a means of escape. It doesn’t make them bad dogs, they just feel threatened and are trying to protect themselves. When multiple dogs are left to wander they can “pack up” and become even more dangerous in groups. Even just 2 or 3 dogs running wild can be dangerous and considered a pack.

This is a problem that requires solutions from both the governing body (for us, it’s the District of Fort St. James) as well as community members. If you can hep a dog in need, do it. If you can help a person in need, do it. If you can’t, find someone else who can help and/or enforce the laws we all have to live by for a functioning and safe society.

Now I have little faith this post will solve the problem. But if it helps change the mind of just one person to be more willing to reach out and help instead of judge, or if it makes one person considering finding a way to keep their dog safe at home, then it was worth writing every word and designing every graphic.

Keep Your Dog Safe This Halloween

Dog Blog, Real Life Training

Halloween is my absolute favorite holiday. It is all about having fun getting scared and eating candy, which are pretty much my two favorite things (other than dogs, of course). I love decorating my house all spooky for the month, taking the kids trick-or-treating, and watching horror movies with my husband.

It’s often easy to overlook our pets during the holidays when we are busy and our routines are disrupted. However, it’s important to take the time to make sure our furry buddies are feeling safe during the holidays as well.

One of the most well-loved Halloween traditions is, of course, dressing up! The first thing to consider is whether your dog will spook over someone in a costume or not. Dogs don’t understand the concept of Halloween or dressing up and it can be very easy to frighten them when everyone is suddenly covered in these strange clothes and makeup. The smells alone of the makeup and plastic can be unfamiliar and unsettling to a dog.

If you plan to dress your dog up, make sure to choose a costume that isn’t too constricting, too flashy or big that may startle your dog, and make sure it is sized appropriately. Once you have your costume selected you will need to teach your dog how to wear it. Don’t wait until October 31st to put the costume on your dog. You will want to try it on them well in advance and get them used to wearing it. If your dog has never worn a costume before, or if they spook easily, you are going to start with very small baby steps to teach them to wear it.

Start by letting them sniff it and reward for close proximity or interest in the garment. Use your dogs favorite treats to make it extra enjoyable. Do short sessions of this and gradually move the costume closer and begin to touch your dog with it. Depending on how the costume goes on, you may want to touch their feet and legs with it, brush it over their back or even place it on top of their head. Gradually move the costume more and more onto their body. Always rewarding for calm, accepting behavior. Once you can fasten the costume onto your dog you can try to get them to walk around with it. Some dogs may feel constricted, like they can’t move even if the costume is loose on them. Be patient and give them time to adjust, always rewarding for calm behavior. If your dog seems stressed, always take it a step back and try again later.

As your dog gets used to it, you can try leaving the costume on them for longer periods. Practice taking it on and off multiple times, giving lots of praise and rewards every time you do.

Of course dogs love treats! But not all treats are safe for dogs. Chocolate is a BIG no-no for dogs and can make them very sick and can even kill them in large amounts (bakers chocolate being the most toxic to them). Keep all candy far out of your dogs reach.

If you wish to include them in the special event, you can opt for dog-safe treats. Our local Ouellette’s Building Supplies has a great selection of dog treats, bones and chews!

Giving your dog a good hardy chew is a great way to keep them quiet, safe and feeling happy during the commotion of trick-or-treaters.

If you wish to take your dog with you trick-or-treating then my best advice is this: know your dog. If your dog is prone to shyness, spooks easily, gets nervous or has any sort of anxiety in public spaces, around people or around strange things then DO NOT TAKE THEM WITH YOU. They are MUCH better off at home, in a safe space where it’s quiet and they can try to relax.

If you have a “bomb proof dog”; meaning they are pretty unphased by crowds, other animals, traffic, etc. then taking them with you while you trick-or-treat can be a great way to further socialize and desensitize them and work on your training in these situations. Make sure to add some lights to their collar, harness or leash to make them easy to see in the dark, and keep them by your side at all times. Some children (and even some adults) may pet them unexpectedly and this is something you will need to know beforehand if your dog can handle that kind of uninvited touch.

Stay safe, keep your dog safe and Happy Halloween!

Falling into Winter

Dog Blog, Dogs and Children, FSJ Dog Training, GUIDE 1: SAFETY & REGULATIONS, Monthly Update, Pack in the Park, Training Workshop, update

Well, October sure crept up on us quickly, didn’t it? I took the summer off from group classes and only did a couple 1:1 sessions. I spent most of my summer focusing on my kids, the house, my weekend job, and my weekly volunteer time doing Pack in the Park. Shannon helped me with hosting this summer and it’s been so great having her part of the Pack in the Park team! She hosts most Sundays at 11am (check the Fort St. James Dog Owners Facebook Group for current dates) and I spend those mornings happy at work knowing you’re in good hands with Shannon!

My weekly Pack in the Park date had to move around a bit with changes in my childcare, but currently they are held most Mondays at 11am (please note this is subject to cancellation due to poor weather).

I’ve been slowly editing my Dog Guides (I have yet to come up with a better name for them than this) and have early released a mini guide titled “Dogs and Children“. This mini guide is a portion of Guide 1: Safety, Bylaws and Care. Safety between dogs and kids is important to me, which is why I created such an in-depth section about them in Guide 1. As part of this mini guide’s early release in my shop, I’ve been posting some facts and information about dog and children safety on my Facebook Page.

Bite prevention is so important to me that I added Bite Prevention Educator to my list of certificates and this spring April and I brought the Be a Tree program (with FSJDT flair) Girl Guides and Nak’albun Elementary kindergarten students. We are reopening these presentations for the new school year! Educators and program directors can get in touch to book a presentation with us. I am currently seeking sponsorship for this program, so if your company is interested or you know of a company that may be interested in sponsoring this type of program please do get in touch.

I decided to run another Basic Obedience workshop this fall, to test the waters on how receptive they would be for this time of year. It was a struggle and I still did not manage to fill the class 100% and offered drop-in. There were no drop-ins during this time, just one person who signed up late. This class was both fun and challenging with mostly puppies/young dogs with a bit of reactivity.

I’ve had a lot of interest in these group classes but unfortunately, not enough commitment. Due to this fact, I will not be offering group classes again until next year. Winter is a busy time for us with our kids, we have two birthdays and Christmas all one after the other, so I’d like to take the next couple of months to focus on those special events and make memories with my family.

I am always available for over-the-phone or email consultation. If you need help with your dog this winter while I am not offering 1:1 or group classes, then a consultation is the next best option.

A Summer Reset and What’s Coming Next

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, Monthly Update, Pack in the Park, update

I took a bit of a break this summer. Consistent childcare, access to a vehicle, and finding the right training space are all challenges that make 1:1 training difficult. On top of that, after running five group obedience classes back-to-back in the spring, I was feeling pretty burnt out. Taking the summer off gave me the chance to recharge and enjoy more time at home with my kids.

While I was home, a few realizations stood out:

  1. Group classes are definitely in demand here.
  2. Without reliable childcare, a car, and a consistent training space, 1:1 clients are nearly impossible to schedule.
  3. It’s okay to ask for help.

GROUP CLASSES ARE COMING BACK

As I shared in my last post, group classes were a huge hit this spring, and I’ll absolutely be bringing them back this fall. If you’d like to join, make sure you’re on the waitlist — I’ll email you as soon as the dates are finalized.

PRESSING PAUSE ON 1:1 TRAINING

As much as I love working with 1:1 clients — it’s where my training techniques really shine — I’ve decided to temporarily suspend private sessions. This includes:

  • Puppy Training Sessions
  • Obedience Training Sessions
  • Problem Behavior Sessions
  • Trick Training Sessions
  • The 1:1 option of the Boundary Training Workshop

If you’re already a 1:1 client or have upcoming sessions booked, nothing changes. I’ll honor all current appointments and contracts. Starting today, though, I won’t be accepting new 1:1 clients until my schedule is more flexible.

A HUGE THANK YOU TO SHANNON

I have to give a huge shout-out to my friend and fellow certified dog trainer, Shannon Joe, who stepped up to help with Pack in the Park. She’s been an absolute delight — showing up consistently, creating her own event pages, and even taking and sharing photos in the Dog Owners Group afterward.

Because of Shannon, Pack in the Park continues to run weekly. She usually hosts Sundays and often covers weekday events if I can’t make it. I honestly couldn’t keep it going without her. Thank you, Shannon!

TRICK TRAINING: A PERSONAL PASSION

Shannon and I have also been tossing around the idea of starting a Trick Training Club in FSJ. While I’m not sure I have the time to commit to a full club, I will be adding a trick training class this fall — so keep an eye out for announcements!

Trick training has been one of my favorite things since I was a kid. Between ages 11 and 16, I taught my dogs an impressive number of tricks — all without formal knowledge. I learned by breaking behaviors down step by step. My dogs could grab drinks from the fridge, vault off my back to catch a Frisbee, balance on my feet — you name it. While other 13-year-olds were exploring makeup and hanging out with friends, I was at home teaching my dog to perform circus acts.

These days, I’m working toward earning my dog Zelda’s Novice Trick Dog Title. We already have enough tricks to qualify, but I’m polishing them up before submitting. Once Zelda earns her title, I plan to launch a trick training class designed to help owners do the same. By the end of the course, you’ll have enough tricks to submit to Do More With Your Dog for your own Novice Trick Dog Title!

Designing the class and all the supporting material will take some time, but I promise it will be worth the wait.

WHAT’S NEXT

Before trick training begins, I’ll be running more Group Obedience Classes — as many rounds as there’s demand for. Right now, I’m updating the class material. Once that’s ready, I’ll confirm dates with the United Church.

I know this post is a lot of “what’s coming soon,” and I wish I had exact dates for you already. My best guess is that group classes will start rolling out in late September or early October.

Thanks so much for your patience and continued support — I can’t wait to get back into training with you and your dogs!