In week three of my Basic Obedience Workshop we talk about focus and reliability. Something I often talk about but don’t always see used by my students is teaching your dog to look at you when you say their name.
Linking a behavior to your dogs name is like a little life hack for training your dog. If you have your dogs focus before you give them the command they are much more likely to actually follow the command.
HOW TO TRAIN IT
To pair your dogs name with the behavior to look at you is simple repetition, repetition.
Say your dogs name; if they don’t look at you right away that’s okay. You can use their favorite treat to lure from their nose up to your eyes.
Give a reward when they look to your face.
Give a *Jackpot Reward* when they make eye contact.
Give an extra *Special Jackpot Reward* if they make eye contact or even look to your face without a lure.
HOW TO SHAPE IT
Shaping = praising your dog when they naturally perform the behavior you desire. You can then fine-tune it by withholding the treat for “more” from the behavior (dogs usually start guessing or adding in some flair to try to figure out what you want that will get the reward), and then rewarding them when they show a behavior that is or is closer to the behavior you desire.
You can naturally shape the behavior to look at you when you’re walking or playing with your dog and they naturally just look at you. Instantly praise “YES”. You can even start pairing it with their name “Yes, Fido!”. Even if you’re not trying to pair the behavior with their name (although I highly recommenced it) just rewarding for “checking in” with you will build good habits for off-leash work later on.
JACKPOT!
If you’re not sure what a “Jackpot Reward” is; it is when you give several small rewards in a row that your dog will count as a really big reward. Jackpot rewards are usually reserved for when your dog does something really well. Maybe something you’ve even been trying to get them to do for a while, or something they’ve been struggling to understand.
To a dog, several small treats in a row is a way bigger reward than the same amount of treats given in one pile. So make sure you’re giving those jackpot rewards one after another and not all at once.
You can also reserve very special rewards as jackpot rewards; this way you’re using less treats but they still hold higher value. Something very smelly and tasty that your dog loves.
REAL WORLD IMPLEMENTATION
The most common problem I see is dogs who don’t come when they’re called. Teach your dog to look to you out of habit every time you say their name and you can shout their name first before giving the recall command. That way your dog is much more likely to actually follow through and come when called because you got their attention first. They’re listening and it is the opportunity to call them once. “FIDO!” – dog looks to you – “COME!”. If your dog doesn’t listen, then it’s time to focus on recall drills and exercises.
Don’t over-use it: train and drill focus with their name and lots of jackpot rewards before you ever use it in a real-life scenario. You want it to become a second-nature habit before you ever actually need to use it.
I bring my dog Zelda with me to work front desk on the weekends at the local hotel. Zelda is friendly, loves the attention and takes her job seriously. However, I’ve observed something time and time again that honestly makes my skin crawl. Grown adults who have no clue how to greet a strange dog. They greet her as if they would greet their own dog. There is a big difference between the comfort level of a dog you know and live with and a strange dog you just met for the first time.
Dogs talk through body language and display many different “stress signals” to try to tell others that they are uncomfortable with what they’re doing. Most humans don’t understand these stress signals and so do not recognize them. They keep pushing the dogs boundaries without even knowing it.
We love dogs and we want to get close to them, rough up their fur and really show them how we care. But to a dog that doesn’t know you, this type of behavior can be scary and overwhelming. Imagine if a stranger you just met greeted you by getting right in your body space, hugging you or slapping you on the back. You’d probably feel really uncomfortable.
Want to learn more about dog’s stress signals? Read my Body Language and Respect post from my Dogs and Children series.
This is a subject I’ve been meaning to talk about for some time but I wasn’t quite sure how to address it. Dogs running loose on their own is a massive problem in our little community. I wasn’t sure how to address this issue until recently I couldn’t help but comment on a public post about “bad dog owners”. I pointed out that it’s a lot easier to educate people when you don’t insult them, and the response was another barrage of insults but this time directed at me. At first I was annoyed, maybe even mad, and very confused as this person was making zero sense. But I collected myself and remembered that when people respond that way it’s because they’re feeling backed into a corner and defenseless. They were too stubborn to change their own mind and so all they had left was insults to hurl.
But it got me thinking… how do I help educate people on this important topic when there are people resulting to insults hiding behind an anonymous name? I decided to start where I thrive best; educational material online. Just like my Dogs and Children series, I have structured it much the same with info graphs and this post to elaborate a little more. I know it won’t change the minds that really need it, but maybe it will help people understand that this is a broad issue, as well as to bust some common misconceptions I hear.
When Dogs Run Loose it’s often referred to by professionals and bylaw officers as “dog at large”. It means a dog is off their property without an owner or caregiver and without a leash.
There are many reasons it is unhealthy for a dog to run around public and private properties without an owner accompanying them. There are risks to your dogs health and life if you let them run loose.
“LET THEM BE DOGS”
I hear a lot of different reasons why we should “let dogs be dogs” and let them roam the streets and live their lives as they please. I often am told that different cultures have always raised dogs differently, and essentially, who am I to come in and tell them how to raise their dog? Sure, the traditional way to raise dogs makes sense when you think about it in traditional times. But this is 2026 and this is a vastly different world we live in today. It’s time for all humans to step up and take care of our animal friends in a way that keeps them safe and healthy in all regards.
CALL ANIMAL CONTROL
When and if to call Animal Control is going to depend on different factors. I’ve heard a lot of different reasons from people against calling Animal Control (which, in our town, is the Fort St. James District bylaw officers). There has been a lot of controversy ever since they opened their doors January 1st, 2025. I’m not here to touch on most of that, but I am here to bust a few myths I’ve heard floating about.
HOW YOU CAN HELP
If, after reading the above points you still don’t feel right calling AC on your friends and neighbors dogs, then maybe offering help is more your style. Sometimes people need help more than judgement or consequences.
They might need help accessing the right equipment (like a proper tie-out), they may need help building a fence, they may need financial aid (there are many resources available for this), or maybe they need the number of a reliable dog walker. There are so many solutions that they could need help with and all you have to do is nicely ask them.
IT IS A COMMUNITY PROBLEM
Dogs at large and left to wander is a community problem. It puts the dogs at risk but it also puts the public at risk as well. When dogs are scared, feel threatened or cornered they will often resort to biting as a means of escape. It doesn’t make them bad dogs, they just feel threatened and are trying to protect themselves. When multiple dogs are left to wander they can “pack up” and become even more dangerous in groups. Even just 2 or 3 dogs running wild can be dangerous and considered a pack.
This is a problem that requires solutions from both the governing body (for us, it’s the District of Fort St. James) as well as community members. If you can hep a dog in need, do it. If you can help a person in need, do it. If you can’t, find someone else who can help and/or enforce the laws we all have to live by for a functioning and safe society.
Now I have little faith this post will solve the problem. But if it helps change the mind of just one person to be more willing to reach out and help instead of judge, or if it makes one person considering finding a way to keep their dog safe at home, then it was worth writing every word and designing every graphic.
Halloween is my absolute favorite holiday. It is all about having fun getting scared and eating candy, which are pretty much my two favorite things (other than dogs, of course). I love decorating my house all spooky for the month, taking the kids trick-or-treating, and watching horror movies with my husband.
It’s often easy to overlook our pets during the holidays when we are busy and our routines are disrupted. However, it’s important to take the time to make sure our furry buddies are feeling safe during the holidays as well.
One of the most well-loved Halloween traditions is, of course, dressing up! The first thing to consider is whether your dog will spook over someone in a costume or not. Dogs don’t understand the concept of Halloween or dressing up and it can be very easy to frighten them when everyone is suddenly covered in these strange clothes and makeup. The smells alone of the makeup and plastic can be unfamiliar and unsettling to a dog.
If you plan to dress your dog up, make sure to choose a costume that isn’t too constricting, too flashy or big that may startle your dog, and make sure it is sized appropriately. Once you have your costume selected you will need to teach your dog how to wear it. Don’t wait until October 31st to put the costume on your dog. You will want to try it on them well in advance and get them used to wearing it. If your dog has never worn a costume before, or if they spook easily, you are going to start with very small baby steps to teach them to wear it.
Start by letting them sniff it and reward for close proximity or interest in the garment. Use your dogs favorite treats to make it extra enjoyable. Do short sessions of this and gradually move the costume closer and begin to touch your dog with it. Depending on how the costume goes on, you may want to touch their feet and legs with it, brush it over their back or even place it on top of their head. Gradually move the costume more and more onto their body. Always rewarding for calm, accepting behavior. Once you can fasten the costume onto your dog you can try to get them to walk around with it. Some dogs may feel constricted, like they can’t move even if the costume is loose on them. Be patient and give them time to adjust, always rewarding for calm behavior. If your dog seems stressed, always take it a step back and try again later.
As your dog gets used to it, you can try leaving the costume on them for longer periods. Practice taking it on and off multiple times, giving lots of praise and rewards every time you do.
Of course dogs love treats! But not all treats are safe for dogs. Chocolate is a BIG no-no for dogs and can make them very sick and can even kill them in large amounts (bakers chocolate being the most toxic to them). Keep all candy far out of your dogs reach.
If you wish to include them in the special event, you can opt for dog-safe treats. Our local Ouellette’s Building Supplies has a great selection of dog treats, bones and chews!
Giving your dog a good hardy chew is a great way to keep them quiet, safe and feeling happy during the commotion of trick-or-treaters.
If you wish to take your dog with you trick-or-treating then my best advice is this: know your dog. If your dog is prone to shyness, spooks easily, gets nervous or has any sort of anxiety in public spaces, around people or around strange things then DO NOT TAKE THEM WITH YOU. They are MUCH better off at home, in a safe space where it’s quiet and they can try to relax.
If you have a “bomb proof dog”; meaning they are pretty unphased by crowds, other animals, traffic, etc. then taking them with you while you trick-or-treat can be a great way to further socialize and desensitize them and work on your training in these situations. Make sure to add some lights to their collar, harness or leash to make them easy to see in the dark, and keep them by your side at all times. Some children (and even some adults) may pet them unexpectedly and this is something you will need to know beforehand if your dog can handle that kind of uninvited touch.
Stay safe, keep your dog safe and Happy Halloween!
Well, October sure crept up on us quickly, didn’t it? I took the summer off from group classes and only did a couple 1:1 sessions. I spent most of my summer focusing on my kids, the house, my weekend job, and my weekly volunteer time doing Pack in the Park. Shannon helped me with hosting this summer and it’s been so great having her part of the Pack in the Park team! She hosts most Sundays at 11am (check the Fort St. James Dog Owners Facebook Group for current dates) and I spend those mornings happy at work knowing you’re in good hands with Shannon!
My weekly Pack in the Park date had to move around a bit with changes in my childcare, but currently they are held most Mondays at 11am (please note this is subject to cancellation due to poor weather).
I’ve been slowly editing my Dog Guides (I have yet to come up with a better name for them than this) and have early released a mini guide titled “Dogs and Children“. This mini guide is a portion of Guide 1: Safety, Bylaws and Care. Safety between dogs and kids is important to me, which is why I created such an in-depth section about them in Guide 1. As part of this mini guide’s early release in my shop, I’ve been posting some facts and information about dog and children safety on my Facebook Page.
Bite prevention is so important to me that I added Bite Prevention Educator to my list of certificates and this spring April and I brought the Be a Tree program (with FSJDT flair) Girl Guides and Nak’albun Elementary kindergarten students. We are reopening these presentations for the new school year! Educators and program directors can get in touch to book a presentation with us. I am currently seeking sponsorship for this program, so if your company is interested or you know of a company that may be interested in sponsoring this type of program please do get in touch.
I decided to run another Basic Obedience workshop this fall, to test the waters on how receptive they would be for this time of year. It was a struggle and I still did not manage to fill the class 100% and offered drop-in. There were no drop-ins during this time, just one person who signed up late. This class was both fun and challenging with mostly puppies/young dogs with a bit of reactivity.
I’ve had a lot of interest in these group classes but unfortunately, not enough commitment. Due to this fact, I will not be offering group classes again until next year. Winter is a busy time for us with our kids, we have two birthdays and Christmas all one after the other, so I’d like to take the next couple of months to focus on those special events and make memories with my family.
I am always available for over-the-phone or email consultation. If you need help with your dog this winter while I am not offering 1:1 or group classes, then a consultation is the next best option.
I took a bit of a break this summer. Consistent childcare, access to a vehicle, and finding the right training space are all challenges that make 1:1 training difficult. On top of that, after running five group obedience classes back-to-back in the spring, I was feeling pretty burnt out. Taking the summer off gave me the chance to recharge and enjoy more time at home with my kids.
While I was home, a few realizations stood out:
Group classes are definitely in demand here.
Without reliable childcare, a car, and a consistent training space, 1:1 clients are nearly impossible to schedule.
It’s okay to ask for help.
GROUP CLASSES ARE COMING BACK
As I shared in my last post, group classes were a huge hit this spring, and I’ll absolutely be bringing them back this fall. If you’d like to join, make sure you’re on the waitlist — I’ll email you as soon as the dates are finalized.
PRESSING PAUSE ON 1:1 TRAINING
As much as I love working with 1:1 clients — it’s where my training techniques really shine — I’ve decided to temporarily suspend private sessions. This includes:
Puppy Training Sessions
Obedience Training Sessions
Problem Behavior Sessions
Trick Training Sessions
The 1:1 option of the Boundary Training Workshop
If you’re already a 1:1 client or have upcoming sessions booked, nothing changes. I’ll honor all current appointments and contracts. Starting today, though, I won’t be accepting new 1:1 clients until my schedule is more flexible.
A HUGE THANK YOU TO SHANNON
I have to give a huge shout-out to my friend and fellow certified dog trainer, Shannon Joe, who stepped up to help with Pack in the Park. She’s been an absolute delight — showing up consistently, creating her own event pages, and even taking and sharing photos in the Dog Owners Group afterward.
Because of Shannon, Pack in the Park continues to run weekly. She usually hosts Sundays and often covers weekday events if I can’t make it. I honestly couldn’t keep it going without her. Thank you, Shannon!
TRICK TRAINING: A PERSONAL PASSION
Shannon and I have also been tossing around the idea of starting a Trick Training Club in FSJ. While I’m not sure I have the time to commit to a full club, I will be adding a trick training class this fall — so keep an eye out for announcements!
Trick training has been one of my favorite things since I was a kid. Between ages 11 and 16, I taught my dogs an impressive number of tricks — all without formal knowledge. I learned by breaking behaviors down step by step. My dogs could grab drinks from the fridge, vault off my back to catch a Frisbee, balance on my feet — you name it. While other 13-year-olds were exploring makeup and hanging out with friends, I was at home teaching my dog to perform circus acts.
These days, I’m working toward earning my dog Zelda’s Novice Trick Dog Title. We already have enough tricks to qualify, but I’m polishing them up before submitting. Once Zelda earns her title, I plan to launch a trick training class designed to help owners do the same. By the end of the course, you’ll have enough tricks to submit to Do More With Your Dog for your own Novice Trick Dog Title!
Designing the class and all the supporting material will take some time, but I promise it will be worth the wait.
WHAT’S NEXT
Before trick training begins, I’ll be running more Group Obedience Classes — as many rounds as there’s demand for. Right now, I’m updating the class material. Once that’s ready, I’ll confirm dates with the United Church.
I know this post is a lot of “what’s coming soon,” and I wish I had exact dates for you already. My best guess is that group classes will start rolling out in late September or early October.
Thanks so much for your patience and continued support — I can’t wait to get back into training with you and your dogs!
This was my first year holding successful group classes and you guys exceeded my expectations. Last year I tried to do a group class and only had one person sign up. This year I thought, “what the heck, throw it out there one more time…” and the response I got was overwhelming. Not only was I able to put on a group class but I was able to put on FIVE of them!
Each class had 4 dogs with their handlers and was held at the United Church. I’m so grateful to the United Church for giving me the chance to hold my classes there. They’ve been accommodating and forgiving (especially of the spring-time dog hair shed about the room). I worked hard to clean the room after each class to help lessen my lease and to show respect towards the Church. All of my students were also very respectful of the space. It turned out to be a great place to run a small class. However, I certainly wouldn’t want more than 4 dogs (and my Zelda) in there. To hold a bigger class comfortably, I would need a bigger space.
Throughout these 5 classes I’ve fine-tuned my methods and curriculum to the point I feel quite confident that the Basic Obedience Workshop is exactly what the average dog owner wants. It’s really more than just a basic obedience class; it’s an “everything you need to know to comfortably live with your dog” class. It covers all of the foundations you need to build strong, reliable obedience.
WEEK ONE: FOUNDATIONS
The class kicks off in week one with Foundations. It starts with a main focus on two of the 5 basic obedience commands: sit and down. Most dogs already know at least one of these by the time they come to my class, but not always.
Other topics covered in this first class are:
leashes and collars terminology and tips off vs down a note on consistency
It’s a lot covered in the first lesson, but all the other classes are built off this first one. As the weeks go on there are less subjects covered in each class because with each subsequent class we are reviewing everything from the previous class, every week. Week One Foundations is definitely a class you don’t want to miss.
WEEK TWO: IMPULSE CONTROL
Impulse control in dogs refers to their ability to resist the urge to act on a desire or instinct and instead choose a more appropriate or desired behavior. For example, stay instead of chase a squirrel. It’s essentially teaching a dog to pause, think and make a more deliberate choice rather than reacting automatically. It’s a skill that is crucial for safety, preventing accidents and enhancing overall training. All dogs could use impulse control training to teach them to think before they act. Heck, most people could use it too. Week two gets right to the nitty gritty of impulse control with a heavy focus on the basic obedience command stay.
Also taught in this class are:
stay circle jackpot rewards distractions and challenges
Newly added to this class is also impulse control games! Games you can play with your dog at home that will help them hone their impulse control skills.
WEEK THREE: FOCUS AND RELIABILITY
Week three takes the skills we’ve learned in the first half of the workshop and builds off of them to step it up with one of the most important basic obedience commands that all owners want their dog to learn: come (recall). In this class we teach our dogs to focus on us and what the key is to more reliable obedience.
Also covered in week three’s class:
watch command automatic sit
WEEK FOUR: REAL WORLD OBEDIENCE
The fourth and final week of this workshop teaches you how to apply all of the skills you learned into the real world and your every-day life. The basic obedience command we focus on last is heel, with an optional “loose-leash walking” for those who don’t really care if their dog walks right beside them, but want them to learn not to pull on the leash. Heel is a great command for learning to navigate the world with your dog as your partner at your side.
Also covered in the last class:
phasing out treats the key to reliable obedience
JOIN THE WAIT LIST
If you missed out on the fun this spring and would like to be a part of my next obedience class, you can join the wait list and I will contact you once I have a date set for the next class.
I wanted to end this post with a heartfelt THANK YOU to everyone who helped make these 5 group classes a success. My family for putting up with my insane work schedule during that time, and of course, to my clients and their wonderful dogs. Thank you to every person who filled these classes. You all taught me as much as I taught you. I truly enjoyed every moment; every challenge, every celebration, every moment of comradery as we were all in it together. You all made this experience extremely special to me. Last, but certainly not least, I want to thank my beautiful demo dog Zelda. I couldn’t have done this without her by my side every class.
Spring time came and hit so fast I feel like I could blink and miss it. My April was incredibly busy; between my daughters year-end dance performance, group classes and one-on-one training sessions my month was jam-packed. I was able to put on two training classes for April and have two more for May. My busy schedule was also due thanks to my husband being home for breakup. This has helped me open my schedule for a lot more dog training.
With spring time always comes “puppy season”. I had a few puppies for 1:1 sessions and those are always a blast. I absolutely love training puppies; so if you acquired yourself a puppy this spring and would like to know how to get the best start on training send me a message!
One puppy came to me for trick training, to help them reach their goal of earning their Novice Trick Dog title through Do More With Your Dog. I absolutely love trick training, and this is a personal goal of mine for my own dog.
Myself and some fellow dog enthusiasts are mulling over the idea of putting together a trick training club. If this is something that sounds up your alley, let me know! The more people we have interested in it, the more likely we will do it.
Registration for my next class has ended, but you can READ HERE more information and to add yourself to the wait list for the next class.
Running group obedience classes was always the goal but one that took me a while to check off my list. It took me a while to have the confidence to run a class, and it only came after my experience with running Pack in the Park.
Last spring I approached the United Church about using the space for group classes. I remember there being group obedience classes there that I took my puppy to when I was about 15. I remember at the time thinking “wow, I want to do this. I want to run a class like this”, so to think back on that and realize that I not only have reached that goal I set so long ago but I’m doing it in the same space where I first set the goal is really quite bittersweet. However, last spring my group class turned into a 1:1 when I only had one person sign up for it. This made me a bit hesitant to put on classes again, but I gave it a shot and was blown away at the response I received. Not only could I put on one but TWO classes with an additional 2 more the following month. I’m not really sure what the difference between last spring and this spring is, but I’ll take it. I’m just happy to see so many people training their dogs!
Group 1 was my “Girlies”. This was a class full of women and their female dogs. It had a great vibe, despite two reactive dogs in the class, and everyone has progressed and learned so much in those 4 weeks. We have our last class tonight and then that is a wrap on Group 1.
Group 2 was a bit more challenging with many dogs and owners at varying levels. We had some owners who just needed the added level of distraction for their dogs to work in and we had others who were puppies just learning with their first-time puppy owners. This made for an interesting dynamic in class. Everyone learned in different ways and rates but everyone kept up with the same curriculum. Group 2 graduated first, as Group 1 had the Easter holiday push their classes back by a week.
As I prepare for Groups 3 and 4 I am using everything I learned from teaching Groups 1 and 2 to make the class even better. I plan to always revise it in this way, ever fine-tuning it to be more efficient and effective.
The most important thing to me is creating and supporting a safe, relaxed environment that is easy to learn in. I will keep offering this class as long as there are people who want to take it.
This month Fort St. James Dog Training, sponsored by the Fort St. James Animal Care Team Society (FSJ ACTS), is bringing the Be A Tree dog bite prevention program to the community’s children. We are starting with our local Girl Guides. Myself along with volunteer April Dimond will be presenting the Be a Tree information, along with some added tweaks to make the program better to understand and remember for children of a variety of ages. This program helps teach children what to do when encountering a strange dog and what types of behavior/body language they can observe and interpret to help them understand whether a dog is safe to pet or not. This information is vital for preventing dog bites in children.
This is a goal I’ve been working towards for a long time. I’m very thankful for FSJ ACTS part in helping me achieve this goal. I’m also incredibly thankful to April, for her insight into teaching children has been absolutely vital, and I’m very grateful for all the hands-on work she’s done to help me bring this program together.
Next Pack in the Park Date: May 7, 2025 Time: 11:00am Location: Goodwin Park
Pack in the Park is a FREE event for all dog owners of all skill-levels to attend. It is great for reactive dogs to learn to work within their comfort zone (you may need to add more space between your dog and others until you reach that comfort zone). This is an owner-lead event; which means you plan the type of training you would like to do with your dog. This is NOT an obedience class.
Be aware: there are dogs behind fences that bark and sometimes there are loose dogs that wander by this park. If your dog is not ready for that level of distraction then you may want to work in a quieter environment still until your dog is ready.
Rules: 1. All dogs must be on leash (NO retractable leashes) 2. Dogs must NOT meet face-to-face; this is not a play date 3. All owners must pick up after their dogs! This is a public park and if we wish to continue to bring our dogs to public spaces we must be respectful.
When you preference test your dog, you learn what type of rewards they prefer. By knowing what your dog prefers you can help better motivate and reward them. They’re going to associate you with their favorite things and feel more compelled to listen because you give up the good stuff. It also helps you bond with your dog, by getting to know them better.
You can find out your dogs preferences by presenting two or more of similar items and see which they prefer, which they seem more excited about and which they tend to move towards and grab faster and/or more often.
You may find they vacillate between two items; they don’t always seem to prefer one over the other. If this happens, you know that both items have pretty equal value to your dog.
You’re going to find variations in what your dog likes based on what type of items it is and again within that sub-group of items. For example, you could present your dog with a toy or a treat, if they like treats better you can then test different kinds of treats against each other and see what kind your dog likes most.
You will be able to see which your dog prefers of… – food – toys – locations – people – tactile stimulation
Repeat the same test at least 3 times to determine their preference. Whichever they go to most and seem most excited about will be their preference.
Pay attention to details. You may want to learn more about the subtle body language that dogs use first, before commencing preference tests. That way, you can be sure to look out for those signs your dog is giving you.
Some of these signs may be… – snatching – eyes popping (getting larger, showing the whites of the eyes) – which one they go for first, and which they go for most often – if it’s a toy, which toy they play with longer – pulling harder, if they are on leash
When testing your dogs food preferences, you’re going to want to keep a few things in mind and understand that not all types of food can be compared equally.
Dogs understand the difference between large and small. You can’t compare a large piece of food to a small piece of food. You need to make sure that the pieces of food you are comparing are the same size.
There are a lot of different types of toys on the market for dogs, and your dog may prefer a type of toy over another. Pay attention to which toys they grab most often, which they hold in their mouth for longer, which they try to initiate play with you more, and whether they prefer a toy they can cash, catch, hold or chew.
There may be variations in… – size – texture – purpose
A dog may prefer a plush toy over a rubber chew. Or maybe your dog loves to play tug o’ war and prefer a good rope toy. Maybe they love to chase balls but prefer a felted tennis ball over a rubber ball.
All of these variations leave for a lot of possibilities that could be your dogs favorite! Test many different toys against each other and see how your dog responds to determine which is their favorites.
Where does your dog like to go to relax, to sleep, or to hang out with the family? To know these preferences you will need to pay attention and take notice of your dogs favorite resting place.
The variations around your dogs favorite locations may be… – warm seeking – cool seeking – quiet location – central pathway – inside – outside
Some northern breeds of dogs and large dogs with thick coats of fur actually prefer to be outside in the winter. If you look at a thermal image of one of these dogs you’ll actually see how much their coats keep heat in. In comparison, you can see how much a heat a short-haired dog would loose. I’ve known of thick coated northern dogs who have full access to an indoor heated home but they choose to sleep in the snow.
It’s no secret that dogs often prefer one person over another. It is commonly the person that feeds, walks, plays, and trains the dog the most. You can understand your dogs people preferences by observing how they interact with each person in their family. Who do they seem most excited about when they return home? When your family is hanging out for a movie night, who does your dog choose to snuggle up with (if anyone)?
Understanding how to ask for consent from your dog can also help you determine who your dog enjoys spending time with, playing with or being pet by the most. You may even find that your dog prefers different people for each of these activities.
To ask your dog for consent when interacting, simply offer yourself to the dog. You can talk to them, clap your hands, offer your hands to smell and for pets, and see how your dog responds. If your dog seems excited, pushes into you, sits at your feet and leans into you, or otherwise shows any signs that they enjoy being pet by you and want to be close to you then it’s pretty safe to say that your dog is saying YES to this interaction. However, if your dog comes in for pets and then turns and leaves, looks away, stays just outside of your reach or maybe even lays down a little ways away from you these are all indications that your dog is saying no thanks, they’re not interested in that interaction. Test out consent with your dog and each person in your family to see who they enjoy interacting with the most.
Remember that dogs moods can change and they may not always prefer the same people all the time. Do the consent test several times and to determine which people your dog prefers most often.
If the results aren’t what you would like, you can make changes in how you interact with your dog to shape a more desirable outcome. Spend more time doing the things your dog likes and prefers and your dog will suddenly think you’re the greatest person in the family! You always have the best treats, the best toys and take the time to understand and respect their preferences.
Tactile preferences is the type of touch your dog prefers. Again, it is helpful if you have a basic understanding of canine communication when doing a tactile preference test. Understanding the subtle cues your dog gives you will help you know which type of touch your dog prefers.
Do one type of touch with one hand and another type of touch with another hand. Observe your dogs body position and which type of pressure your dog leans into.
You can try different variables of touch, such as… – heavy pressure vs light pressure – stroking vs. scratching – close hugs and petting vs at arms length
Most dogs don’t enjoy hugs and kisses. Those dogs which do seem to enjoy this type of interaction have usually been conditioned to enjoy it. Some dogs may enjoy hugs and kisses from their owner but feel extremely uncomfortable if a stranger or lesser-known person tries to interact with them in this way.
Dogs often don’t like to be pet on the top of their head because there is a blind spot there. They may be conditioned to accept and even enjoy it from their favorite people, but when it comes to strangers they should never pet a dog on top of the head.
Imagine if your partner always bought your flowers but what you actually liked was chocolates. Imagine you had no efficient way to communicate this with them so they just kept buying you flowers. Yeah, you may appreciate the gesture, but what would really get you happy, excited and appreciative is if they knew what your favorite thing was.
Now that you understand your dogs preferences, you can use this information to better motivate and encourage them which will give you better success in your training as well as a deeper bond with your dog.
Shara Walsh 