April Update

Dog Blog, Dog Rescue, FSJ ACT, FSJ Dog Training, Monthly Update, Pawparazzi Pet Services, Trick Training, Zelda

The rest of March and this first half of April have been a bit slow for me, when it comes to dog training. I haven’t been advertising a lot or taking on very many clients. With spring break for my eldest and break up for my husband I just focused on spending time with my family.

But I’ve also been brewing up some ideas for workshops this summer. I am working on a big workshop that will be 4 weeks long with an optional open day for practice as well. This workshop is titled “Building Your Dog’s Confidence” and I’ll be sharing more details about it once I feel confident it will be happening. Currently I’m working out how I can do it from my back yard. This workshop will also involve dog agility equipment, which I only have a few select pieces left from my agility days in my teens/early twenties. Building and obtaining more equipment is my first goal and once I do that I’ll have a better idea of how much space I need and when the workshop will happen. I don’t want to do it in the dead of summer during peak fire season either, so I am trying to get it done as quickly as I can, but there’s been a few set backs.

The second workshop I’ve been working on will be a smaller one that will just be a one day thing (probably 1-2 hours long). This one will be in a public space, but I have yet to secure one (though have a few options). It will be a larger group than the confidence building workshop. I haven’t landed on a title yet and I haven’t outlined it as well as I have the other workshop, but I have an idea of what I want it to include. It will be all about leash work. Sizing a leash, good leashes vs bad leashes, about leash laws an why leashes are important, how to achieve loose-leash walking, the difference between loose-leash walking and heel (and how to teach heel). Basically, it’s a 101 on leashes. So these are some things I’ve been working on a bit, and will hopefully be happening this summer (fingers crossed we don’t have an insane fire season that limits me to needing to train indoors).

I find it awkward that my monthly updates cover half of this month and half of last month… so I’m going to come up with some sort of schedule for how I post on the Dog Blog and these monthly updates will fall on the last Wednesday of the month instead of the second. It just makes more sense. This means a longer wait for the next monthly update, but the next one will cover half of April and all of May.

FAVORITE MARCH NAME: WALTER

I love that all the dogs from this litter were named starting with “w” and they all got these totally normal people names. I first met Winston when I was dog walking and last month I had the honor of meeting Walter, Winston’s brother. Such a sweet, calm dog who’s personality is nearly opposite to his brother. I really enjoyed working with him and his owner has clearly put so much time into him already.

Runner up was an adorable little frenchie named Meki.

FORT ST JAMES ANIMAL CARE TEAM

We’ve settled on a temporary name, although I have a feeling this is going to end up sticking. It just works really well. At first, I was a bit bummed because I have a sentimental attachment to the Fort St. James Humane Society, but now that we have landed on a name we’re using I have done some thinking and I realize that a new name is probably for the best. We aren’t the same society that was established back in 2008. It’s a new group of people (a few are the same, but mostly new people) and we are moving forward. We are going to take what we’ve learned from the last society and move forward with it.

We currently really need volunteers and donations. Pretty much all types of donations are being accepted. We have a bunch of raffles and concessions coming up for fundraisers and we could use donations of baked goods and warm food. We also need more people to help with these types of fundraisers and events.

If you’d like to volunteer please send a message on Facebook or come to the next meeting. Our next scheduled meeting is Sunday, April 14th at 1PM at The View Hotel (come straight through into the dining area and to the right).

There are two upcoming vaccine clinics for residents of Fort St. James, Nak’azdli and surrounding communities. $100 exam fee, and each vaccine is $26. There will be dewormer available as well, the price varying quite a bit based on animal size and species. These clinics are booking up fast so don’t hesitate to contact Katie if you want to get your pet in!

Our little animal rescue group is also looking for any type of dog and cat food donations. ANY kind of food is accepted regardless of brand, size, canned, kibble, raw etc you name it we will take it. I will always preach about good nutrition to dog owners and how important it is to select quality food for your pets, but when it comes to starving animals fed is better than dead. Quality isn’t a concern when it comes to just feeding starving animals.

Food donations can be dropped off at The View Hotel. If you require it picked up please contact the Fort St. James Animal Care Team to make arrangements.

TRICK OF THE MONTH: SPIN

Definition: from a standing position, the dog spins their body in a tight circle (from head to tail)

Command Variations: “spin”, “twist”, “circles”

Use: fun trick

Caution: spin is not advised for dogs with spinal problems, hip problems, or any sort of mobility issues that may cause pain or exacerbate their condition

How to Train “Spin”

Begin with your dog in front of you, in a standing position. Hold a yummy treat in your closed hand and lure it in front of the dogs nose. When you have your dogs attention move your hand in an arc toward the dog’s back end, and follow through around in a full circle. The dog should follow the treat with their nose and spin in a circle as they follow. If this doesn’t happen, your hand may be too close or too far away, or you may not be giving enough room for your dog to comfortably spin around. When your dog completes a full circle praise and reward with the treat.

Once your dog seems to be catching on, start using verbal and hand commands and try it without luring. If your dog struggles, go back a step and continue to lure while giving the command and then try again without the lure.

VARIATIONS: You can teach your dog to spin clockwise, counter-clockwise or both! Simply teach your dog to spin one way and then teach it the same but in the opposite direction.

Add Distractions

It’s important to always gradually add distractions when training any new command. Once your dog is understanding without a lure in a quiet room move on to a less quiet room. Start throwing in distractions of other people, animals, and different places. You can test your dog by throwing a small box across the floor, have someone else blow a whistle, roll a ball past the dog, throw a treat etc. There are endless ways to test your dog out. Create the distraction and give the command, “center” and if your dog struggles to look at you despite the distraction then you need a bit more work in the quiet room or with a less challenging distraction. Slowly build those distractions inside your home and then try outside your home. Try in your yard and then move on to a local park, beach, down town etc. If your dog struggles with the new level of challenge then you need to take a step back and work a bit more at a lower challenge.

ZELDA WITH BOOKS: A BOOK REVIEW

This is a new section to my monthly update, but not a new practice for myself. I have always been an avid book reader, but unfortunately since having kids and the responsible adult life it’s been harder to find time to read. I’m also a super slow reader, I just always have been. Because of this, I’m not sure exactly how I’ll do this section. I have feeling it may not stick as a monthly feature because I may not have enough new content for it every month (I tend to read books for months on-end). I’m also not sure if it’s appropriate to write my reviews for anything I’m reading here or if I should stick to dog-related books? I certainly do have a lot of those that would provide content for some time, but I’d much rather tie this post into my Instagram account which is where these reviews will be most likely coming from. I’ve been partaking in “bookstagram” since 2020 and it’s been a fun little side hobby. I enjoy photography and the added challenge of photography with books and my dog have been a fun way to bond with her and teach her new tricks and behaviors. I think, to start, I am going to write about the last book I finished and reviewed, and you guys can give me some feedback on whether you want to see more like that or if you want me to only review dog-related books. Another option is to focus mostly on dog-related books and throw in other genres here and there. I mostly read horror, and I feel that’s a bit niche. Let me know your thoughts on this!

Humane Sacrifice by Felix I.D. Dimaro

5/5 stars

What a super fun read! Melvin Cockburn was failed by everyone in his life, except his dear little cat Lucy. But Lucy has a terminal tumor, and Melvin can’t stand the thought of losing his only friend, so when he’s offered a chance to save her, he takes it; no matter the costs.

This book is a wild ride. Horrifying in the ways you expect from Dimaro but surpsingly also filled with a lot of heart. I just felt bad for Melvin, despite the horrific things he does.

This was a 5 star read for me. It may even be my new favorite Dimaro book. It was delightfully twisted, surprised me at several points along the way, and of course, I’m a sucker for books featuring animals. It was also super fun going back to Saturn City, seeing the Pitchman again, and the little nods to other Dimaro stories I’ve read.

You’ll like this book if you like gory, violent, shocking horror, if you’ve liked previous Dimaro books, and if you like stories involving animals.

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A post shared by Shara (@zeldawithbooks)

If you are a bookworm but struggle to commit to any sort of reading schedule then perhaps the Fort St. James Public Library book club is for you! The following is from their post:

The 4R club is a “silent book club” for reluctant, returning and reclusive readers!

The first 30 minutes are an open discussion about books – you can share (or not) about a book you have read in the past or are reading now. The following hour is a time to pick a cozy spot and read in silence. The last 30 minutes are an opportunity to socialize.

Feel free to attend some or all of the session. This is an opportunity to set aside time to read without distractions.

The 4R Club meets the last Thursday of each month from 6:00-8:00pm.

Mental Stimulation

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, Real Life Training, Training, Trick Training

Dogs are smart beings that have several needs, and one that is often overlooked is their need for mental stimulation. The more you train your dog the more they will use their brain. A dog who is often challenged and taught new behaviors will actually learn to use those behaviors and problem solve on their own (at least, to the degree a dog is capable to). If not given enough mental stimulation (and physical exercise) a dog will often become bored and restless. This is when destructive behaviors start to occur. This is especially true for dogs who are naturally smart (some breeds that are naturally more intelligent would be border collies, Australian cattle dogs, standard poodles… basically any dog that was originally bred to do a job that requires some independent thinking and problem solving) if you don’t give a smart dog something to do they will find something to do for themselves. This will often be behaviors such as excessive barking, digging, fence jumping, or destructive chewing. There are several ways to fulfill your dogs needs for mental stimulation.

TRICK TRAINING

Training is a big one. Basic obedience, of course, but if you feel like your dog needs a challenge try training tricks. Tricks are a fun way to engage your dog, bond with your dog, and they’re super fun to show off to others.

Start with some simply tricks that are easy for most dogs to pick up. Shake a Paw is a pretty common trick that most dogs catch onto quickly. However, some dogs paw a lot to begin with, and so you may want to first consider whether your dog is like this. Boxers commonly like to use their paws a lot. When you train a dog like this to shake a paw it suddenly becomes their whole personality. They are the dog who shakes and shakes and shakes even when it’s not asked for. If you think this could happen to your dog, then I discourage training shake a paw.

There are lots of basic tricks to teach your dog such as roll over, sit pretty, spin, etc. and you can also build behaviors onto each other to create more complex tricks. Targeting (touching) your hand with their nose can then turn into closing a door or rolling a ball. There are literally hundreds of tricks you can teach your dog.

For more trick training ideas and tips check out Do More With Your Dog, where you can even get your dog titled for Trick Dog!

TRICK OF THE MONTH

February – Target
March – Center

CHEWS

A good, deep chew is highly beneficial for a dog. It works their muscles, brain and promotes good oral hygiene (which helps fight bad breath). Chewing is also very instinctual; dogs will often find something to chew on if they’re not provided with it. Chewing releases endorphins which heightens the sense of pleasure and well-being for the dog.

To pick a good chew for your dog you will need to consider their size, breed, and personality. If your dog is a big, strong dog that loves to chew you’re going to need a big, strong chew. Something too hard can cause injury and break teeth. Something too soft can get stuck on teeth or tear to tiny pieces too easily. Something too big can be difficult to get a grip onto, which can also cause injury and may just build frustration in your dog. Something too small can get lodged in their throat or swallowed.

DON’T use hard, round balls or tennis balls. They are quite dangerous. Look for toys that are attached to a rope/handle or are hollow in the middle.

Raw meaty bones (RMB’s) an excellent source of protein and a good chew. Note; you should never give your dog cooked bones. Cooking makes the bones brittle and more likely to snap and splinter in sharp points that cane puncture and hurt your dog. RMB’s need to be selected based on size for the size of your dog. There is lots of information out there about raw feeding and using raw bones for recreational chewing. A great place to start is the Perfectly Rawsome website.

If you head to a pet store for a good chew product, it’s important to keep in mind that not all products sold as chews for dogs are actually safe for the dog. Rawhide is a great chew for a dog; as long as it’s been processed and prepared properly. Which unfortunately, cheap, bleached rawhide chews are often complete garbage and downright dangerous for your dog. A great alternative is to look for “pizzles” that are prepared naturally.

My personal favorite is a black Kong stuffed with peanut butter and treats. This will keep a dog busy and a Kong is a great toy for a heavy chewer. They vary in quality based on colour. Black Kongs are the strongest and least likely to be destroyed. Last I checked, they are also covered in Kong’s guarantee and if your dog does destroy a black Kong then the company will replace it.

PUZZLE TOYS

There are so many different kinds of really cool dog puzzle toys now. You can buy endless different kinds and you can also construct your own with objects found around your home. For example, you can lay out an old towel and sprinkle dog food or treats on it and then roll the towel up. Or place food in a muffin tin and cover each with a tennis ball. There are lots of ideas, The American Kennel Club has some good DIY ideas.

Here’s the catch on puzzle toys, and this is how I see them often fail for people; you have to train your dog how to use them. Some dogs may figure it out on their own, but I’d say most need to be taught what to do (or at least shown that there is food involved). For example, for the type of puzzle toys that has little sliding windows will need to be started with food in the compartments but with the doors open. The dog needs to first learn there is a reward in the compartments to have a desire to try to solve the puzzle. Next you would partly close the doors, and finally close them completely. You may add a level of difficulty with food in some compartments, but not others.

OBSTACLE COURSE

A great way to stimulate your dog both mentally and physically is obstacle course training. If you’re lucky enough to have a local dog agility club, then I highly recommend checking them out. If you have the ability and room then you can create some backyard agility equipment. Your obstacles don’t need to be dog agility regulation, unless you plan to compete in agility trials with your dog.

You don’t even need equipment, you can use your surroundings, so long as you take the time to train your dog properly. You need to be their spotter and you need to be aware of your dogs body language and what they’re telling you. You are there to guide them and teach them the behavior broken down in easy to understand steps. Using your surroundings as an obstacle course is called “parkour”, and when dogs do it it’s called “barkour”; which I think is adorable. You can use a wall, a tree, a playground, whatever you have access to with your dog. If you’re interested in this I recommend checking out the Instagram accounts @parkour.ninja and @parkour.dogs.

“Real Life” Training

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, GUIDE 5: DOG TRAINING, Real Life Training, Training, Vet Care

Jump to: [ Condition to Touch ] [Boundary Training ] [ Door Dashing ] [ Go to Place ]

A note on “corrections”: A “correction” is a way to teach a dog that what they’ve done is wrong and not the behavior your requested. A correction may mean different things to different people, based on your training methods. It may involve a training collar (e-collar, prong collar, check chain, etc) or it may involve a firm “NO” followed by showing the dog the correct behavior and giving them an opportunity to try again.

I often tell my clients to make sure they are practicing their training around the house in “real life” scenarios. When you’re eating breakfast, have your dog down/stay in their bed. When your brewing your coffee or tea take a couple of minutes to practice a few commands in the kitchen. When you are leaving the house have your dog sit and wait before going through the front door. When you head out to water your flowers or take your garbage out bring your dog with you and work with their boundary training and recall (make sure you work at their level of training; use a long line if you need to).

If you get creative, there are lots of ways to incorporate training into your day-to-day life with your dog. It doesn’t have to be an hour dedicated to training every day or even every week. 5-minute training sessions once or twice a day will have a huge impact on your dog.

How else is the dog supposed to learn how to act under these conditions? In order to perform how I want her to under regular every-day conditions I need her to learn it in those conditions.

Here are a few examples of every day life training situations. This is not a step-by-step how-to post, but rather a detailed explanation of the type of training I’m talking about. If you’re looking for step-by-step instructions please feel free to send me a message and set up a consultation for a training session.

Condition Them to Touch

All dogs should be conditioned to touch so that they are not overwhelmed by it for basic care such as grooming and vet care. You can do this when you’re sitting at home watching TV. Put your dog in front of you and condition them to hands touching all over their body. Focus on touching their ears, mouth, paws, legs and tail. You can make a positive association by making a relaxing time of it and rewarding with treats.

If your dog will need to be on a grooming table, prop them up on a table at home and make positive associations for your dog in this scary situation. Some dogs feel really uneasy their first time up on a table. Make them feel more comfortable by getting them used to it through multiple exposures and associating something positive (like treats) with being on the table. For more about grooming your dog, check out my post Grooming and Care.

While conditioning your dog to touch, keep in mind the kind of touch that may be required for their basic grooming and vet care. This may involve picking the feet right up, holding it firmly and maybe even splaying the toes apart to be able to trim each nail. This will be uncomfortable and weird for your dog, so approach each type of touch separately. You will need a lot of patience and to condition your dog slowly in baby steps over the course of time. If you’re worried about giving your dog too many treats, you can hand-feed them using their kibble as a reward for accepting your touch. As long as you remember to use a meal rather than adding extra food, and as long as your dog actually likes their food, they will still make a positive association.

Boundary Train

Boundary training is by far one of the most important real life training. Teach your dog what spaces they’re allowed to be in and under what circumstances. Use cue words to let your dog know whether they can exit the property and establish a boundary that is easy for your dog to understand (such as the edge of the lawn). Take your dog out on a long line any time you are outside. You can practice it when you’re out gardening, enjoying the sunshine, shoveling snow etc. Let the long line drag behind your dog but keep an eye on them. As soon as they cross the boundary you’d like to establish correct your dog and put them back within the boundary. Work on this every time they’re outside with you and work on it often. Eventually your dog will learn where the boundary is and not to cross it.

You can also use this as an opportunity to work on your dogs recall. When your dog is away from you and distracted with just being a dog then use this as a chance to call them. Call your dog to you sporadically at random times when they’re in different places within the boundary. If they don’t come when called, you can use the long line to correct and/or guide your dog back to you.

Door Dashing

Teach your dog not to dash out of an open door. This should be a rule applied to when you’re leaving the house and in the case of a door left open. Teach your dog these techniques for the doors to your house and any gates that could be potentially left open and your dog escape. For example, one day when I was sick in bed, my husband was mowing the lawn and he left the gate open. My dog Zelda was inside, but the door was open with the screen closed and the cats like to open the screen door to let themselves out. If the screen is open enough for her to get her muzzle through then Zelda will push the screen door open too. Within 15 minutes she escaped and was long gone. We were able to track her down through posting on the community Facebook page and tracking sightings of her. After that I decided to teach her she was not allowed out of the gate unless one of us gave her the go ahead.

Likewise, your dog should learn not to dash out of any open doors. We have a split-level entry which makes getting in and out of our house crowded and annoying to begin with. Add an excited, uncontrolled dog into the mix and it’s a recipe for someone falling down the stairs. For this reason, I’ve taught Zelda not to dash down the stairs or out the front door.

Every time you open the door, have your dog sit and wait (on leash). If the dog dashes out the door correct them and put them back in the same spot or further back from the door. Every time you leave with your dog make them wait until you give a cue (‘lets go’, etc). The dog should not be allowed to leave the house through that door without the cue word.

Go To Place

Teach your dog to have a place that is just his to go lay down on. Teach a command to send your dog to his bed to keep him out from under foot, while you’re eating or when you have company over. “Go to bed” is a good cue to use. Teaching your dog to go to place will be a lot easier if they already know how to lay down and stay on command.

Going to place is a very handy “real world” command for your dog to know. Tell your dog to go to place when you’re eating meals, when you have guests over or whenever you just don’t want your dog under foot.

It’s very important that your dogs place (whether it’s a bed, blanket, crate or rug) is used by only the dog. Don’t allow children to play on it or other pets to lay on it. This is your dog’s safe space to relax.

If you’d like more information or help training any of the above “real world commands” please don’t hesitate to contact me to schedule a consultation and training session.

What Can You Expect from FSJ Dog Training?

Dog Blog, FSJ Dog Training, update

I get a lot of confusion on how my dog training is set up. I don’t have group classes (at this time), you don’t get a certificate of completion when your dog is done training with me, there is no structured repeated sessions unless you want them. What I do is customize your training session so that you get the most success out of it. I do not stick to one type of training method, I use many methods and many training tools to help support the owners training goals, their dog’s individual personality as well as the personal morals of the owner. If you don’t want to use a training collar we will find another way. If you don’t like using treats we will work on phasing them out and relying on other forms of praise. I’m here to help you and support you during your training journey with your dog.

My name is Shara and I run Fort St. James Dog Training. I got my certification for Advanced Obedience & Kennel Management and Master Dog Trainer in 2007, and my certificate for Behavior Evaluator in 2008. I stopped training for a long time and focused on starting my family and my artwork until 2023 when I jumped back into dog training. I was certified for Canine CPR and Emergency First Aid in the summer of 2023.

There are several steps to getting a training session set up with me, and I will walk you through the process below.

Step One: First Contact

It is up to you, the owner, to contact me. There are many ways people do this, but my preferred method of contact is via email (slsartistryinfo@gmail.com) or Facebook Messenger on my Fort St. James Dog Training page.

When you first contact me, there really isn’t a lot of need to go into too much detail about your dog and any problem behaviors you’re experiencing. We will cover all of that very soon. All I need to know is that you’re interested, you’d like to get some training on your dog, and whether you live in Fort St. James or one of the surrounding towns and communities.

I will give you the same speech I give everyone who contacts me, I want to be upfront and transparent about my style of training, the cost, and what my training sessions feature. For the sake of this post, I will get into more detail on these features below.

Step Two: Consultation

Before your session can be booked you will first need to do a consultation. The consultation helps me understand what your goals are for your dog, your morals around different training methods, and information about your dog so that I know what kind of training methods they may respond to best and where any problem behaviors may be stemming from. All of the information I gather during the consultation helps me to put together a training session for you that is custom-designed to meet your needs.

There are two ways to complete the consultation.

The Online Consultation is $20 CAD and most convenient for you and myself because you can fill it out whenever and I will take the time to go over it when it’s best for me (I usually go over it within 24 hours of you submitting your online consultation).

The Over-the-Phone Consultation is $40 CAD and because we get to talk over the phone there is more back-and-forth, allowing follow up and extra questions that I may come up with as we go over the consultation questions. You also get a chance to ask me any questions you may have and I am able to get a little more in-depth information to best create your training session. The over-the-phone consultation sometimes takes longer to take place due to scheduling conflicts.

The same questionnaire is used for both consultations, but the over-the-phone consultation allows for back-and-forth conversation.

Step Three: Book The Training Session

The training session can be booked at any time, but if you do not pay for and complete the consultation by 2 days before your scheduled session, then it will be canceled.

Your training session can be booked through my Online Booking Calendar or by Facebook Messenger, e-mail or over the phone with me.

My current available times are Tuesdays and Thursday 11AM or 1PM. If these times don’t work for you I can make arrangements to book on the weekend or a different day, but it may take me time to arrange childcare (whereas I already have it lined up for Tues and Thurs).

Step Four: Your Training Session

The type of training session you receive will be decided by me after reviewing your consultation. Most owners have an idea of what type of session they will need before I tell them, though. Each training session is 1-hour long. This is a very long time to train a dog for (you usually want to spend 5-10 minutes on it at a time) but we spend a lot of time discussing a lot of things and we will spend 1/4 to 1/2 the session actually working hands-on with your dog.

Puppy Training Session is for puppies between 10 weeks and 11 months. It covers all the common puppy topics such as crate training, house training, nipping/chewing, jumping, barking, and introduction to training. We usually cover recall because it’s the most important to start building towards right away. A puppy training session is $40 CAD.

Obedience Training Session covers the 5 basic commands and is for any puppy that has already completed my puppy training session and is ready to move on to more advanced lessons, or any adult do that needs a refresher or is just learning basic obedience commands. The five basic commands are sit, down, stay, heel and recall (come). We will try to cover all five in the one hour, but this is entirely dependent on the dog. Some dogs may already have a good understanding of most of the commands, some may be learning all from scratch, some may need to just start over due to bad habits already developed. Depending on the methods used in training, we may discuss ways to safely use training collars and how to eventually phase treats out of training. The obedience training session is $50 CAD.

Problem Behaviors Session is for any behaviors that are causing problems, undesired, or concerning. This may be something like jumping, digging, barking or dog reactivity, separation anxiety etc. A problem behaviors session is $60 CAD. Puppies tend to display problem behaviors because they’re simply untrained and don’t know any better. It is a lot easier to teach a puppy what not to do vs trying to train that undesired behavior out of a dog who has already been doing it a long time and developed bad habits. Puppies with problem behaviors will not fall under this session and will receive a puppy session.

A Note on Articles

I write a lot of articles to go with many common topics. I will give you either a paper copy or PDF digital copy of these articles based on your consultation and your training session. It will be on topics that relate to what we discuss and what you and your dog are learning.

Most of these articles are still heavily in the editing phase, so I ask all my clients to ignore basic typos and grammar errors, but to let me know if the wording doesn’t make sense or something isn’t explained very clearly.

Step Five: Follow Up

I am here to help you with your dog. I want to know if you run into any problems or the advice I give you doesn’t work. I also want to know if it does! I have no way of knowing if you’re successful in reaching your training goals with my aid unless you keep in touch and tell me. I always love hearing updates from my clients.

If something isn’t helpful or your struggling with it then I want to know so that I can further help you. Once you are signed up for dog training with me I am committed to helping you for the rest of your dogs life! You can contact me any time with any problem or success. If I feel like you have a lot of problems or particular things to work on, or that it might be more helpful for me to be able to demonstrate with your dog in-person then I might suggest another training session.

If you need additional sessions, the type of session will be decided on after a brief conversation with you during booking. A consultation is not required for additional sessions that are within 6 months of each other. If it’s been 6 months or longer you will need to purchase a consultation again.

March Update

Dog Blog, Dog Rescue, FSJ Dog Training, FSJHS, Monthly Update, Pawparazzi Pet Services, Training, Trick Training, update, Zelda

I was going to post something different this week; I wanted to post a blog I have written about what to expect from Fort St. James Dog Training. It covers everything from first contact to the consultation, session and follow up. However, since I missed posting the last two weeks that bumped us into the middle of the month faster than I expected and it’s time for another monthly update! The post I had planned for today will instead be bumped to next week.

So far, the month of March has been pretty quiet. My family have just been battling one cold after another. I think I spoke too soon when I said we got away with less sickness this winter than last and the germs are trying to show me to put my foot where my mouth is. It’s like we suddenly got hit with all of it in one month. Which is why I missed posting the last two weeks.

In February I had set the goal of doubling the amount of dogs I trained vs the month before, and I not only met that goal but surpassed it. I knew that setting a similar goal for March would be unrealistic as I just don’t have enough available hours for training to work with 20 dogs in one month. I’m fine with that, sometimes we need our goals to be realistic so that we don’t become overwhelmed in reaching them. I’ve trained a handful of dogs so far this month and each one is always so special to me. Even if I only trained one dog in the month I’d still consider it a success because I was able to help someone with their dog. After all, that is what I’m here for.

Favorite February Name: Tyrion

One of the many little delights I’ve found in dog training is learning what people name their dogs. My favorite dog name from February was a sweet little dog named Tyrion. As a Game of Thrones fan, this name is an absolute hoot (especially on a small dog).

Tyrion’s owners were also very enthusiastic about training; they are working hard to reach their training goals and I loved seeing them attend Pack in the Park and really put in the work. Way to go guys!

A close second was a corgi named Kevin.

Business License

Fort St. James Dog Training was supposed to start as an official licensed business March 1st. I was sick leading up to March so I didn’t get a chance to get to the District Office before March 1st but went in on the day of. It was my experience (from eons ago) that you could get a business license the same day. I even downloaded their form from the District website and filled it out beforehand to save time. When I brought it to the office I was met with a lot of confusion. I was told they couldn’t do it that day. When I expressed my surprise, I was told ” yeah, we have to do it the right way now.” I was a bit shocked at that answer. “You weren’t doing it the right way?” I asked and the answer I got back was “no” and then a mumble about high turnover. So I think maybe the people at the office just didn’t know how to do it? I was told they’d be in contact with me after looking it over. It’s been almost 2 weeks since I dropped it off, how long does it take to look over one sheet of paper? I phoned this morning and was told they e-mailed me, but I never got it. I don’t understand why they didn’t phone. I feel like people have lost the art of the phone call these days (does complaining about that make me old?). They needed my registration number and I don’t understand why that wasn’t an option to fill out on the application. At any rate, I am annoyed and I have to say, after that experience I’m really not left with a lot of confidence in our District workers.

animal welfare updates

Our little group has been working really hard to re-establish the Fort St. James Humane Society. We’ve dotted most of our i‘s and crossed most of our t‘s but there’s still a few little things to work out so we’re keeping our rescue missions on the down low until they are finished so that we don’t become overwhelmed. There are a LOT of animals needing help in our community and a lot of owners who need help with their animals. It’s going to take time to really start making an impactful difference.

Last week we executed our first big rescue mission since re-assembling an Animal Care Team. It was a drop in the bucket of a larger issue, but we changed the world of 17 puppies and that’s amazing. People from difference communities all came together to make this mission a success. In honor of an Animal Care Team member who passed away recently, we named this first rescue Mission Chantel. Chantel loved animals and really wanted to see our efforts in animal rescue be successful.

One Saturday, March 9th, 16 puppies (one ended up being adopted by one of our members) were loaded up and transported to Quesnel, where the Victoria Humane Society transport driver met our driver with their beautiful van and the 16 puppies were transferred from one vehicle to the other. VHS drove them back to Victoria where they were all quickly bathed, vetted and placed in foster homes.

As I said, a lot of people were involved in this rescue mission and it went quite smoothly and I would say was a total success! A huge thank you to the people who worked hard to orchestrate the whole thing and cared for these sweet little babies while they waited for transfer. This mission would not have been successful without everyone who played a part.

You can learn more about Mission Chantel on Facebook here and here.

If you would like to be a part of the solution get in touch with the Fort St. James Humane Support Group and see what you can help with! One thing we never seem to have enough of is foster homes. Since we don’t have a physical building to house animals, we need people to open their hearts and homes to house any animals we take in. If we don’t have a place for them to go, we can’t help them.

Novice Trick dog

One of my goals with Zelda is to get her a Novice Trick Dog (NTD) title. I love training tricks to dogs. I love the way they need to be broken down into different behaviors that you then shape together.

Trick dog titles can be obtained through Do More With Your Dog. For a NTD you need 15 tricks to be evaluated by an evaluator either online via video or in-person. Some basic obedience counts and advanced and expert tricks count as two towards the NTD. For more information, check out their website.

Zelda’s trick list currently consists of:

(1) sit

novice

(2) down

novice

(3) shake hands

intermediate

(4) sit pretty/beg

intermediate

(5) spin circles

novice

(6) roll over

intermediate

(7) leg weave

intermediate

(8) center

novice

(9) stay

novice

(10) touch hand (nose touch)

novice

(11) focus (watch me)

novice

(12) drop on recall

advanced

Trick of the Month: Center

Definition: Come from behind and stand between the handler’s legs (shoulder to knee)

Command Variations: “center”, “peekaboo”

Behavior: Break down into two parts: dog stands between your legs and dog moves from in front to behind you

Use: To position a dog where you want them

This trick doesn’t have a lot of practical use, but is a fun extra to train your dog. It can act as a party trick or can come in handy when participating in dog sports, such as dog agility, where you want to get your dog set up in a specific spot to start.

How To Train “Center”

Stand in front of your dog but facing away. Bend down and hold a treat in one hand and motion with your hands for your dog to come through your legs. As soon as the dog is in position reward them. Keep practicing until you feel like your dog understands to stand between your legs. Start connecting your command with the behavior.

Next you will need to teach them to go to that position from anywhere and facing you from any direction to start. Since you started teaching this trick with your dog behind you, gradually start to turn your body so that they’re approaching from the side. Practice many times until your dog is doing it smoothly. Try again after turning your body a bit more and continue to train this way until you have turned enough to be facing your dog when the command is given. The dog must go around and then get into position from behind you.

Add Distractions

Dog Reactive vs Dog Aggressive

Dog Blog, Pack in the Park

Dogs who are dog aggressive can be dog reactive but it doesn’t mean all dog reactive dogs are aggressive. Aggression is really the intention behind the behavior, whereas reactivity is the behavior itself, and therefore there is all kinds of intent behind reactivity.

What is Dog Aggression?

Dog aggression is when what fuels a dogs behavior is the desire to act aggressively. They want to attack another dog because they enjoy the act of attacking. Dogs who are acting aggressively will often bark, growl, snarl, lunge, hold their tails high and actually wag their tails. Something in their brain has been wired to enjoy the aggressive act. The chemical release in their brain is so rewarding when they bite, shake, tear etc that it encourages them to keep doing it. They just enjoy it.

One often missed signal is a dog wagging it’s tail when it reacts aggressively. People often think “he was wagging his tail, he wasn’t being aggressive” but the reason he was wagging his tail was because he was enjoying being aggressive.

It’s been my experience that most dog’s aren’t truly aggressive but instead fall somewhere under “reactive”.

What is Dog Reactivity?

A reactive dog is one that doesn’t behave ideally when encountering other dogs, people, animals etc. A dog reactive dog will react in an undesirable way when it sees another dog. This behavior can widely vary from nervous behavior, i.e.; cowering, pulling away, rolling over, barking, and under pressure may result in a growl and eventually if pushed hard enough, a bite. There is a wide scale of dog reactivity and not all dogs will react the same.

Some reactive dogs just have no clue how to greet another dog. They get way too excited at the sight of another dog. They just want to get to them, they want to introduce themselves and become best friends. These are often the “my dog is friendly” types. The dog is friendly but way too exuberant. If on leash this can display in loud, obnoxious behavior, i.e.; jumping, barking, lunging, screeching/screaming, dragging the owner etc. When off leash these dogs bound up to everyone they meet, whether anyone else wants to meet them or not. They don’t take social cues from other dogs, they don’t seem to understand canine etiquette. They push their friendship on everyone.

Then there’s a whole myriad of dogs in between who may react in different ways when encountering another dog on a walk. Basically, any behavior other than walking calmly at their owners side is considered “reactive” behavior.

A Growl Doesn’t Always Mean Aggression

A dog’s growl is a form of communication. It doesn’t always equal aggression. In fact, really aggressive dogs don’t waste their time with a warning they just go straight to their aggressive behavior. A growl is just that; a warning. It is a way for dogs to communicate that they don’t like what someone else is doing. It’s their way of saying “I don’t like that, please stop”. A growl doesn’t indicate aggression. In fact, I think a growl is a very important tool.

If you punish your dog when they growl you are essentially teaching them that their voice doesn’t matter. You should never punish a growl. If a growl is punished enough, the dog will stop using it. They will go straight from feeling uncomfortable to biting. They will skip the warning because you’ve taught them their warning is bad. Any dog, if pushed enough, can react with a bite. Most of those dogs would rather give a warning growl firsts before resorting to a bite though.

Don’t punish a dog for growling. Instead, take it as the warning that is is, and respect your dogs wishes. Remove them (or the other dog, or whatever it may be that they growled at) and bring them back to a space (both physically and mentally) where they feel safe and secure again. Respect the growl because it’s the most respectful thing your dog can do when they’re feeling cornered, scared, or uneasy in any way.

How to Deal With Reactivity

The best way to overcome your dogs reactivity is to slowly expose them to more and more to the things that they react to. You want to do it at a distance that allows your dog to be comfortable. They may show curiosity but they shouldn’t be barking, lunging, pulling etc. If they are reacting that means you need to put more distance between them and the stimuli (the dog they’re reacting to). Move to a distance they are comfortable with and then praise and refocus them with basic obedience training.

Our Pack in the Park exposure training is a great way to work with dogs that are reactive.

February Update

Dog Blog, Dog Rescue, FSJ Dog Training, FSJHS, Monthly Update, Pack in the Park, Trick Training, update

We’re almost halfway through the month so I figured it was time for my monthly update.

In January I helped 4 people gain new skills with their dogs, and for February I’d like to double that number. I’m establishing a weekly routine for dog training now that I’m feeling like I’m starting to get into the swing of. I was mostly a stay-at-home-mom for over 7 years so having a schedule (outside of my kids schedule) has been challenging to stick to. I keep track of all my clients by their first name and their dogs name because I’m more likely to remember their dog than them. Sorry, but it’s the truth, no offense intended.

One of my favorite things so far about training dogs again is learning what people name their dogs. I think this sparks an idea for a new monthly segment on the blog: favorite dog name! My favorite dog name for January was Darla. I know she’s named from the Little Rascals (which in itself is great), but I’ve been re-watching Buffy the Vampire Slayer and Angel for a while now and one of my favorite characters is Darla.

Last month’s update I mentioned changing my prices. I am still planning to raise my prices to help balance my cost after adding the online consultation. Because I had worked my prices to include the phone consultation as part of it, when I added the online consultation I lost $20 off every session. I will be recouping that by adjusting the prices of my sessions. This price change will be in effect starting March 1st, which is our official business launch date! So book now, if you want to take advantage of my current low prices.

On Sunday we had our first meeting for the Fort St. James Humane Society. Currently, just an idea and a dream, but we’d love to re-establish the humane society in our community. The Humane Society was established in 2008, did a lot of good in our community and had a lot of community support, and then it was dissolved about 5 years ago after the founder and some board members moved or experienced burnout. Since then it’s been a small handful of people just trying to do right by the animals. I think we’re in a position now where we have more people to help, more support from community leaders, and people have seen how much these issues have compounded in the last couple years. Heck, it’s why I got back into dog training. I was just tired of people complaining but never trying to fix the problems; I decided I’d actually do something and it all started with Pack in the Park.

You can view the meeting minutes here and the next meeting is February 25th at 1PM at the View Hotel. We had a good turnout last time and I’d love to see even more next time! A special thank you to April, Monica and Lesley for bringing this meeting together and spearheading this project. Another thank you to Diane who couldn’t make it to the meeting but has been doing so much for animal welfare that I feel she deserves a thank you too.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

I can’t talk about local animal rescue without also talking about volunteer opportunities. Want to help and get involved?

There is a raffle for Bingo at Kwah Hall February 22nd, donations can be dropped off between 4 and 5PM. Food and raffle items are needed. Popular foods: soup, chili, chow mein, jello cups with cool whip. Contact the Fort St. James Humane Support Group for more information or to find out other ways you can get involved.

Trick of the Month: Target

I tried to do a “trick of the month” for a trick training club last year and struggled to get interest in it. I think I’ll just be sort of adding it onto my monthly updates as I’m working on them with my own dog Zelda. Right now I am capturing the behavior with “yes” every time she touches the post-it with her nose. We are just starting this trick, but I’ll post progress as we go.

Teaching a dog to target your hand with their nose (touch your hand with their nose) is a behavior that can be shaped into many other tricks such as closing a door or turning on a light switch.

I like to use a Post-it (sticky note) to help make the transfer between your hand and other objects easier. When I first taught my dog this trick, I wanted him to close a door. I first taught him to touch my hand and then when I tried to get him to target the door he just kept booping my hand. The sticky note made it so much easier to communicate to him that I wanted him to touch his nose to something other than my hand.

The command you use should be something simple and easy to remember. You can use “target”, “touch”, “nose” or whatever makes sense to you. You can either start using the command right away, or start incorporating it once your dog is making the connection.

Stick a sticky note to your hand and hold it out to your dog. When they sniff at the sticky note say “yes!” (or use a clicker) and reward them with their favorite treat. Keep repeating. If your dog no longer seems interested in the sticky note at all, you can try holding a treat under your thumb in the sticky note hand or rub a treat on the sticky note to make it smell good. Some dogs may try to bite or take the sticky note; discourage this. Only reward for the dogs nose touching the sticky note. You can also sort of wave the sticky note in front of them, or move it a little closer into their view. Basically, you’re hinting “hey, it has to do with this thing”. Make sure to give them time to work the problem out in their mind. Hint at the sticky note and then wait and see what they figure out. If they don’t seem to be getting it at all then hint harder, maybe use a treat in that hand etc. but try to give the dog time to figure it out first.

Once your dog starts to make the connection that they need to touch their nose to the sticky notet, try moving your hand away from them a bit more, maybe a bit higher or on the ground. Move it around to make it more challenging.

When you know your dog has figured it out then it’s time to try transferring the sticky note to whatever you want them to do. Whether it’s to close a door, flip a light switch or push a ball, use the sticky note to let your dog know it’s time to touch their nose to something other than your hand.

At this point you can also stop using the sticky note and get your dog to touch your hand with their nose without it.

Dogs and Children: Body Language and Respect

Dog Blog, Dogs and Children

I’ve decided to make my three-part article about dogs and children available for free. This subject is near and dear to my heart as well as just being extremely important information. Most dog bites to children happen to the face and can be traumatizing, disfiguring or even fatal. If both dogs and children are taught from a young age how to safely and respectfully interact they can build a beautiful friendship together.
[ PART ONE ] [ PART TWO ] [ PART THREE ] [PART FOUR]

I felt like my Dogs and Children articles overlooked (or in the very least, skimmed) over a couple of very important aspects when thinking of dogs and children. Part four is my way of expanding on those aspects. If you haven’t yet, please go back and read parts one, two and three of my Dogs and Children articles to fully understand the unique yet wonderful relationship kids and dogs have.

If you’d like to see more articles about dog body language and behavior, let me know!

Always Ask Permission

One of the most important things we can teach our children about interacting with strange dogs is to always ask permission before petting them. Since we don’t know the disposition of life experiences of every dog we encounter, it’s important to err on the side of caution when introducing yourself or your child to a new dog. Always ask the owners if you can pet their dog and respect whatever their answer is. Every dog is not put on this world for us to pet (as much as we’d like them to be) and if a dog is not comfortable with being pet or an owner does not want them being pet (for whatever reason) then it’s important to respect that. Petting a dog who doesn’t want to be pet can cause lasting trauma to that dog. For all you know that dog is getting over a traumatic experience involving a persons hands and your movement towards their head just set them back by weeks. Maybe the owner is training their dog to be a service dog and you petting them is distracting from their very important job. Maybe neither dog or person likes interacting with strangers and you know what, that’s okay. How other people feel and think about you is none of your business. Just accept their response and move on with your day.

Be Mindful of HOW the Dog is Pet

When petting a dog, especially a strange dog that you don’t know, it’s important to remember not to reach over top of the dogs head when you pet them. Not all dogs like being touched on the head, and even dogs that do, don’t usually appreciate strangers reaching over top of their head. This is a threatening move to most dogs and can be especially threatening to a nervous or unsure dog.

Instead, reach your hand out calmly for the dog to first sniff. Don’t bring your hand all the way to the dog, hold it out in front of you and allow the dog to come to you to sniff. Once the dog has sniffed you and seems okay with your presence then reach forward to pet their chest and shoulders. Pet slowly and calmly, don’t aggressively pat or scruff up a dog you don’t know. That kind of interaction is best saved for dogs who know you and enjoy that type of touch.

Teach your children this is the proper way to greet a strange dog. Kids tend to get bit in the face because it’s at the right height for a dog to snap at. A kid who reaches over a dogs head to pet them is a kid opening their face up to being bit if the dog is uncomfortable with being pet that way.

Understand Dog Body Language

Whether interacting with a strange dog or a family pet, it’s important to understand dog body language so that you can pick up on the subtle cues your dog is giving you before they become not-so-subtle. Dogs speak volumes with very little so you need to learn these cues and be very keen to watch for them. If your child is old enough, teach them about these cues as well.

If a dog is feeling nervous or unsure then it’s important to back off. There are some important canine body language cues you should know how to recognize and respond to.

WHALE EYE

It is known as “whale eye” when you can see the whites of a dogs eye. They will be turning their eyes and the white in the corner of the eye will be visible. This is a nervous dog.

EARS BACK

If a dog has it’s ears pinned back it usually means they are not happy about something, or may be feeling nervous or uncomfortable. When a dog is relaxed or happy their ears tend to sit up or forward (depending on the way the type of ears).

LIP LICKING

Nervous dogs will often lick their lips repeatedly. Lip licking is a major indicator that a dog could potentially bite.

YAWNING

Dogs don’t always just yawn when they’re tired. When accompanied with other nervous behavior signs (often paired with lip licking) it is an indication that a dog is unsure and nervous.

AVOIDANCE

When a dog shows avoidance behavior they are trying to physically remove themselves from the situation that is making them uncomfortable. If they’re on a leash or in an enclosed space they will not be able to avoid very far. Flight or Fight is the instinct in all mammals to either stay and fight or run away from a threat. If the option to run away is removed (whether in an enclosed space or on a leash) the animal will most likely resort to fighting. This is when bites happen. As soon as you see a dog avoiding something by moving their head away, shrinking back, moving their body back, getting low, trying to escape, then you need to remove that pressure that is scaring them. Whether that’s you, a child, or something else. If the pressure is not removed and there is no option to flee the dog will likely resort to a bite.

GROWLING

Just like the rest of these behaviors listed above, growling should be viewed as a communication tool for your dog. It’s a way for the dog to communicate that something is happening that they don’t like. It’s a warning that a bite may soon follow. It’s really important to never punish a growl. If you punish a growl you may end up removing the growl completely and then you’re left with a dog who bites without a warning.

How to Handle These Behaviors

Teach your children about these cues from dogs that mean they’ve had enough attention. Teach your child that as soon as they see these cues it’s time to stop interacting with the dog and give them space.

If it is your dog exhibiting these behaviors when interacting with children (or really, anyone) then consider it a big red flag that your dog needs some work. Consult a dog behaviorist or dog trainer who understands dog behavior. Your dog may need some work in exposure training (in a controlled setting). Don’t leave them alone with children and supervise all interactions. Watch for the above signs that your dog is uncomfortable and give them more space if they need it.

Grooming and Care

Dog Blog, Pawparazzi Pet Services

About Grooming Your Dog / an Interview with Groomer Anna Hawkins

I think something a lot of pet owners overlook when they first get their pet is their grooming and care needs. All dogs need grooming, but not all dogs will require the same effort or type of grooming. To dig a little deeper on this subject, I decided to interview my sister Anna Hawkins, who is based in Alberta. She is knowledgeable about grooming and wants to see people take responsibility of their pets care. I thought she would be a great person to help me with this post!

Anna runs Pawparazzi Pet Services in Taber, Alberta. It is a home-based professional salon for pets. Pawparazzi Pet Services just opened last year, but Anna says she started with hands-on experience the year before. “My friend was running a home-based dog grooming business and she was kind enough to teach me and give me loads of hands-on experience.”, she said. Anna loves animals and devotes herself to treating them with kindness and is very professional. Since opening, Pawparazzi Pet Services has been busy helping keep Tabers animals healthy and looked after.

Anna volunteering her time to trim nails at Pet Valu.
Proceeds went to the Taber Lost Paws Society.

Condition Your Dog

The first thing you need to do to get your dog on the path of regular grooming care is to “condition” them for that type of handling. Animals don’t understand that grooming is good for them and they don’t always enjoy it right away. In order to get a dog (or any other animal) used to being handled by a groomer you have to first start at home handling them in a similar fashion and associate that handling with something positive. You can do this just hanging out in your living room watching a movie. If you have a table you can lift them onto it will help even more as most groomers use a grooming table. If you don’t have a table you can put your dog on, you can still condition your dog from the floor or couch. Sit down with your dog and touch them all over. Associate this touch positively using your tone of voice, your type of touch and food rewards. Make sure you are touching their ears, feet/toes, tails and mouths as well. These are areas most dogs aren’t fond of being touched.

If your dog ever gets a nail or pad injury, ear infection or tooth problem you will need them to be okay with being touched in these areas by a vet or groomer. They will also have to be used to you lifting their tails, as a surprising amount of dog problems come from the butt (as we learned at the K-9 First Aid course hosted by Nikki last summer). Pet and touch your dog then treat. Do this all over and repeatedly. You can work on it for 5 minutes a night and it will still make an impact on how your dog behaves at both the groomers and the vets.

You can also take this one-on-one time with your dog as a way to touch base with their health. Give them a look all over to make sure that all systems are working fine. Peek into the ears, check the gums, you can even go so far as to check your dogs heart rate. Knowing what your dog’s regular resting heart rate is can help you in the case of an emergency to know what is normal and what isn’t normal for your dog. Check between the toes, part the fur and look for any bumps, scrapes or strange growths. If any odd bumps or lesions do show up you can be aware of them, treat them if necessary, and keep an eye on them so that they don’t get infected. If your dog has an injury that hasn’t been noticed it can fester and become a real problem.

At-Home Care

Even if you have a reoccurring appointment with your groomer, you will still need to make sure you are keeping up on regular at-home care for your dog. There are many things people easily overlook such as nails. Sometimes people feel intimidated by trimming their dogs nails themselves and so they simply don’t do it. When you don’t keep up with regular nail care then the blood supply to the nail grows with the nail and it becomes harder to trim them. You have to slowly take off a bit at a time and leave several days in between for the blood supply (known as the “quick”) to recede. I asked Anna what the most overlooked part usually is and her response was, “oh yes, probably the nails. I am always surprised by how often people say their dog doesn’t need a nail trim but then I look at those feet and they are SO overgrown.” Dogs walk on their toes, so if you leave the nails so long that they are past the toes and touching the floor, they can push the toes up and force a dog to walk on the main pad on their foot (kind of like making you walk on your heel). It can be uncomfortable and if left untreated it can even cause foot pain and arthritis in your dog.

It’s important to understand the unique grooming needs of your dog. Some breeds have different types of coat that require different types of care. “Dirty ears and un-plucked ear hair in poodles and poodle-mixes is another very common issue”, Anna says. Some terriers require hand stripping of the fur as well, which is a bit more work and a lot more conditioning than your average type of coat.

Whether your dog has a unique type of coat or not, the biggest thing you can do between grooming appointments is brush your dog. “If your dog has a smooth-short coat, use a bristle brush and a de-shedding brush.” Anna said about brushing between appointments, “If your dog has floofy thick fur, get that comb right down to the skin, not just the top layer. Cats should be brushed, too, especially long-haired cats.”.

Matted Fur

When an animal’s fur gets tangled and is not treated it can become more and more tangled until it’s a thick matted mess. Mats can be unsightly, annoying and even dangerous. If left untreated, the mats can mat together and form a whole “pelt” that covers the animal. It is so tight all over and can pull on the skin. Since it creates a thick layer over the skin moisture can get trapped against the skin. All that pulling and moisture is a dangerous grounds for infection. It can be extremely painful. It’s best to take care of mats when they’re small and easy to remove. Mats commonly happen in long-haired animals that aren’t brushed, but they can sometimes happen to short-haired animals too.

“Don’t let your dog swim and then roll around to dry off,” Anna said, “because it can create a lot of mats in the coat. If you find a mat, massage it with some corn starch and gently pick it out with a wide-tooth comb.”

Finding The Right Groomer

Grooming animals is one of those professions where anyone can say they’re a groomer (just like anyone can say they’re a dog trainer). So how do you find a good groomer who knows what they’re doing and treats your pets with a fair kindness? Anna says, “People should always ask a groomer where they got their practical (hands-on) training, and what are they doing to update their knowledge and keep their skills sharp? There is SO much to learn in this field and we should never stop studying and seeking improvement”.

I loved the way Anna explained this, as it’s exactly how I feel about dog trainers as well. Hands-on experience is important, someone who is willing to keep learning and keep getting better is essential, and someone who you personally get along with is also important. You’re going to commit to bringing your pet to this person on a regular basis, it’s important that you trust them personally and trust their skills as well.

“I am so grateful to the pet owners in my area for trusting me with their fur-babies.” Anna said, “I have been honored by the tremendous response to my new business, and all the support I have received in only a few short months. I am flattered to have clients from Taber and almost all the surrounding small towns, with some driving nearly an hour to bring their pets to me. I promise to always treat them as if they were my own beloved fur-faces.”.

A good groomer will treat your pet like their own loved pets. That is a great quality to look for in a groomer, and the residents of Taber and it’s surrounding areas are very lucky to have Anna caring for their pets!

Be The Ideal Client

Grooming animals is not for the faint of heart. I knew from an early age, about 12 or so, that I could never hack it as a groomer. I just don’t enjoy it. I do the basic grooming necessary for my dogs and I am fully aware I will not put in extra effort for de-matting and more extensive grooming. I think it’s important people are honest with themselves when they first get a dog, on whether or not they can put the time and effort into their unique care needs. I know I don’t want to deal with the coat of a long haired dog, so I don’t get long haired dogs.

If you’re going to rely on a groomer for regular appointments you should do your best to be an excellent client. This involves regular maintenance in between your appointments, but it goes a little beyond that as well. I asked Anna what her ideal client was and after her answer I realized the ideal client is also the ideal pet owner. It’s someone who’s proactive in their animals care. I think it is also someone who feels comfortable to have free-flowing dialogue with their groomer. Ask questions if you have them, and be curious about your dogs care.

“I really appreciate any client who loves their pet so much that they are trying to do all the right things at home in-between grooming and veterinarian appointments. They research how to brush the pet and they bought the correct type of brush for the coat type. They are feeding the best quality food they can afford. They are hands-on, actively training and socializing, and are very aware of what is happening with their pets physical state. They know when to book the pet with a professional groomer, they are committed to that appointment and see it for what it is: health and wellness care.”

I also asked Anna what her idea pet client is. She said any animal that cooperates in the salon, which brings me back to the beginning of this post. I can’t stress enough how important conditioning your pet to touch is. Anna further explained, “They don’t have to be thrilled with the situation, but please don’t be climbing my arms and snapping at me and leaping around like a little rodeo bull. I do love grooming Pomeranians, Golden Retrievers, and Border Collies especially, though.”

A huge THANK YOU to Anna of Pawparazzi Pet Services for helping me with writing this blog as well as for providing the “Grooming Tips” and photos. As an on-going effort to raise awareness about grooming as care for your dog, I will have these grooming tips peppered throughout my blogs, website, and social medias.

Aggression Towards Children

Dog Blog, Dogs and Children, GUIDE 1: SAFETY & REGULATIONS

I’ve decided to make my three-part article about dogs and children available for free. This subject is near and dear to my heart as well as just being extremely important information. Most dog bites to children happen to the face and can be traumatizing, disfiguring or even fatal. If both dogs and children are taught from a young age how to safely and respectfully interact they can build a beautiful friendship together.
[ PART ONE ] [ PART TWO ] [PART THREE] [ PART FOUR ]

The goal of rehabilitating a dog who shows aggression towards children is to have a dog under control while around children. The goal shouldn’t be a dog who will be best friends with a child as this is a dangerous and unrealistic expectation. This is accomplished by exposing the dog to the child in a comfortable setting and at a distance where the dog is showing no signs of fear. The utmost importance is the child’s safety. Never attempt this type of training without consulting a dog trainer or animal behaviorist. Never attempt this type of training without the permission of the child’s caregivers. The dog must be on leash and if necessary muzzled at all times.

These methods work for rehabilitating a dog around any person or animal. For the sake of this section, I will be focusing on children.

Obedience command must be well-trained

You will have no luck getting your dog under control if you don’t first train them basic obedience commands. Every dog should, at the very least, know to sit, down, stay, heel and recall (come). Also known as ‘the five basic commands” (Guide 5: Dog Training: 5 Basic Commands). You will first need to train these commands without distractions and then gradually build distractions until you can comfortably handle your dog in public. Once your dog is well-trained then you can begin exposure therapy.

Exposure therapy/desensitization

The goal is to associate the child with something positive using classical conditioning techniques. For more information about Classical Conditioning, read Guide 2: Intro to Learning Theory. The dog’s experience that they associate with the child must be a positive, relaxed experience. More stress and pushing the dog past their comfort level will result in more trauma, fear and aggression.

To influence the dog to associate something positive with a child you’ll be using the dog’s favorite treats whenever the child is around. You may have to start from quiet a distance to begin. Always start where the dog feels comfortable. Treat and reward, work on basic commands and focus commands (Guide 5: Dog Training: Watch Me).

Keeping the child safe is the primary concern

Of course the safety of the child is the most important thing. Small children should be held by a guardian or sit in their lap. Older children should understand and have the self-control to not approach, touch or talk to the dog. The dog should be on leash at all times and if necessary, muzzled. How do you know if your dog should be muzzled? If they’ve bitten or tried to bite anyone before then they should be muzzled during desensitization. Before you muzzle your dog make sure you first condition them to wear it (Guide 3: Training Tools: Muzzle).

Once an incident occurs you can never assume the dog will be safe around any child

Referring back to the above point; the child’s safety is the primary concern. You simply can NOT trust your dog around any child ever again. You can train your dog to be calm, to behave himself and tolerate the presence of children but you will never be able to fully trust your dog to never bite a child if put in an uncomfortable situation. You will always need to rely on your leash, training, and barriers when necessary to keep the children in your life safe from a traumatizing experience and your dog safe from a dangerous dog record or worse; euthanasia.

Don’t Punish a Growl

Something quite often misunderstood and mismanaged in any “dog aggression” type scenario is the growl. A growl is an important communication tool for a dog. It’s a way for them to communicate that they’re uncomfortable with something. If you punish the growl you will remove the growl which means no warning system in place and a bite will likely occur with zero warning from your dog. Never punish the growl. Instead; respect the growl for what it is; your dog’s communication. Interpret it to mean you need to give your dog more space and time for desensitization.